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How to Identify a Well-Made Custom Suit

Well made custom suit

Suits are always going to be an investment. More often than not in menswear, you get what you pay for. Here, we’re going to talk a bit about what it is that makes a suit worth more. Ensure you are making a worthwhile investment by learning how to identify a quality, well-made suit.

In order to identify a suit’s quality, you need to look at all aspects of the suit, including the fabric, the proportions and cut, the lining and other aspects of the construction, and the tiny little details, like the buttonholes and the seams.

First, What’s It Made Of?

With a cheap suit, you are going to see polyester or blend fabrics which, if you ask us, is an immediate quality disqualifier. Most well made custom suits use only 100% wool. Beyond looking at the tag for the fabric composition, you can determine quality by feel as well. Pure wool feels softer and more flexible than a polyester or a polyester blended suit. Additionally, you will see a better drape over your body, and the fabric is more breathable. If the material is blended, look for predominantly wool composition with a satin or a cashmere blend. Avoid polyester! Satin and cashmere blends with wool are some of the highest quality fabrics on the market. The suit’s tag might identify where the yarn comes from. In that case, look for Italy, France, England, or the United States.

fabric in neutral tones

Second, How Is It Constructed?

Standard Suit Patterns

All suit-making requires patterns. Where that pattern comes from can be a good way to tell the quality of a suit. Ready-made patterns result in one-size-fits-all construction. A ready-made pattern means the suit will never fit you perfectly even if you take it to a tailor after purchasing. Suits you find at Joseph A. Bank or Men’s Wearhouse all use the same pattern and will never have a perfect fit.

Custom Suit Patterns

High quality, well-made custom suits are bespoke or made-to-measure. If you want the bespoke look but don’t want to break the bank, consider our hybrid MTM process. We alter a pattern with your measurements, so the pattern fits your body before we start constructing the suit. This process produces a suit that’s a perfect fit. Even better, our H|M Mobile Tailor calculates your precise measurements down to a millimeter at home. All it takes is two photos from your smartphone camera.

Half Canvas vs Full Canvas Custom Suits

The jacket interlining is a great indicator of quality. Cheap suits usually have a fused interlining, which means the lining is glued onto the fabric of the suit jacket. High quality suits, on the other hand, have either half or full canvassed interlining. In these cases, the lining is sewn instead of glued. Full canvas means the whole lining is sewn to the jacket. For a half canvas suit, only the most important part has sewn lining: the shoulders and collar. Canvas provides flexibility and breathability in your suit. A canvassed jacket molds to your body, fitting better over time.

half canvas vs full canvas suit

Third, How Do the Details Look?

Sometimes you can tell whether a suit is cheap or quality just by looking at the little details, like the buttonholes, the buttons, and the stitching. On a cheap suit, the buttonholes are machine-made, and typically have fraying on the thread. In a quality custom suit, you will find buttonholes that are either hand-sewn, or are machine-made with a high quality machine, resulting in neater, cleaner stitches without fraying.

The buttons themselves are another good indicator. Cheap buttons may be plastic, and are more than likely attached with glue. Quality buttons are composed of nacre, or Mother-of-Pearl – the inner shell layer of an oyster, and are stitched on. Here at HARTTER MANLY, we use a hybrid approach. Our process utilizes both hand-sewing and high-quality machine techniques to construct the details of your suit. Combined with our customization tool, we can make your suit exactly the way you want.

As we all know, a lot goes into constructing a well-made custom suit. Some suit-makers cut corners, use cheap materials, or speed through the construction. In order to make sure you are getting the most for your money, you can use this guide to analyze a suit and know with certainty that you’re making a quality investment. Ready to have your very own bespoke suit? If so, start shopping for your custom suit to get the creation process started.

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Got The Time? How to Identify a Well-Made Watch

Gold colored classic pocket watch against dark black background. Internal watch components are visible.

Watches are, at their core, machines – small but powerful. There are so many moving parts that go into a working timepiece, which means that there is a broad window of price ranges that go along with them. Today we will look into what makes a timepiece high quality, and how you can identify a well-made watch before buying.

A hand holding a luxury watch with leather strap

First Things First

Does the watch industry operate along the lines of “you get what you pay for”? Not always. Price does not always directly correlate with quality. Above a certain price point, you’re no longer paying for superior quality. Instead, you’re paying for the brand name and the status that comes with it. For example, is a $500 watch going to be five times better than a $100 watch? Definitely. Is a $5000 watch going to be ten times better than a $500 watch? Probably not. So how then do we determine quality?

First, companies that make lower quality watches use mass production and fewer parts. With that in mind, you can assume that a $10-$50 watch is probably priced that low because of how cheap it was to make. In that instance, you can know that you’re getting what you pay for, simply because it makes sense mathematically. Generally, what is inside the watch is more important than the outer aesthetic in terms of quality, because the inner workings are what makes a watch function well. However, you are not always going to be able to see the inner workings. So we’ll talk a bit about how to identify a well-made watch simply by looking at the outward appearance.

Black and bronze watch placed on stone surface

What’s On The Outside of a Well-Made Watch?

Angles and Shapes

Sharp edges are an easy way to identify a cheaper watch. Even on hard angles, there should be a slight curve to a watch for comfort. You will tend to see slightly rounded edges on higher quality watches. You will see simpler case shapes and fewer details on the watch face in a lower quality watch. The surfaces are less polished and are less likely to be bead blasted or brushed for a smooth finish. Higher quality watches typically have hand-finishing: the beveling, engraving, and enameling are all done by hand.

Dials and Details

Cheaper watches will have flatter dials, which end up looking more two-dimensional in appearance. You’re also less likely to see hobnailed bezels or stylized numerals in a cheaper watch. Those kinds of details are more expensive and time-consuming to produce.

Face

On a cheaper watch, you will see cheaper crystal or mineral glass as the face covering, which is more susceptible to scratching. On a well-made watch, you are more likely to see sapphire, which is highly durable and clear. In addition, you will see more complications – a term used to identify additional features of a watch – such as a chronograph, the date on the face of the watch, water resistance, and more.

Rolex deepsea watch with silver band an blue face

What About The Inside of a Well-Made Watch?

Well-made watches will typically have mechanical movements, which involve more working parts to keep the watch functioning well. These are usually more expensive because they require a large amount of time and labor to put together the small, intricate, complex mechanisms that make the watch tick. They are powered by mechanical parts that sit on a spring, with an oscillating balance wheel used to regulate time. The inner pieces of a mechanical watch are usually made of precious metals and jewels used to keep the watch parts from deteriorating.

Quartz movements are typical of cheaper watches, as they are more affordable to manufacture. In a Quartz movement, electricity powers the Quartz crystal, which then create small vibrations at a very specific frequency. The watch determines how much time has elapsed by measuring those vibrations. While they are cheaper to make, they are highly accurate and durable. In some cases, they are even more accurate than a mechanical movement.

As we mentioned above, a higher price doesn’t always mean a superior product once you pass a certain point. We’ve given you the tools you need to identify a high-quality timepiece for the next time you go accessory shopping. Use these tools to make an informed decision, as a watch is an investment – one you’ll want to make with as much knowledge as possible.

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Race Day Attire: Kentucky Derby

What to wear for the Kentucky derby

Kentucky Derby & Other Race Day Fashion

Everyone has heard of the Kentucky Derby. It’s the annual horse race where high, fun fashion is paramount. But did you know that there are two additional races that fill out the Triple Crown? The Preakness Stakes and the Belmont Stakes are the two races that follow the Kentucky Derby, and the team that wins all three earns that coveted Triple Crown. You may have heard a bit about the wild traditions that make up Kentucky Derby fashion. Maybe you’ve even attended! But the Preakness Stakes and the Belmont Stakes each have their own dress code. Here, we’ll break it down for you, so you look great at each race.

What to wear for the Kentucky Derby

First, The Kentucky Derby

The Kentucky Derby Theme

The centerpiece of Kentucky Derby fashion is, you guessed it, the hats. Women wear huge Summer hats in bright or pastel colors. The hats feature details such as feathers, buttons, tulle, lace, and more. But at the Kentucky Derby, the men can stand out too.

The Kentucky Derby Look

Make it bold but not too busy

You’ll see all sorts of wild and bold patterns on the gents at the Derby. There are the basics like bold stripes and plaid, but there are also more unique patterns – flamingos, margaritas, American flags, florals, and more. The key to a great Derby look that doesn’t look too busy is to have one element in a bold pattern. For instance, make a bold statement with the shirt, the jacket, or the pants, and keep the other two more neutral. They can still stand out a bit, though. Try a bright or pastel color or a more subtle pattern, but make sure it doesn’t take center stage. 

Add statement accessories

You can also have one of your accessories be in a bold pattern as well: a tie, bowtie, or pocket square. To finish off the look, put on a Panama hat and slip your feet into some horsebit loafers – but forego the socks. 

The goal at the Kentucky Derby is to stand out and make a statement. Derby fashion is definitely the wildest you’ll see in the three races, and it’s tons of fun to get dressed for.

Second, The Preakness Stakes

Fashionable custom suit made to order

The Theme

The Preakness Stakes aren’t nearly as wild and free as the Kentucky Derby, but that doesn’t mean the fashion isn’t fun. Preakness Stakes fashion is a nod to historical fashion – more specifically, the 19th century. You’ll see bowler hats and waistcoats with pocket watches on T-bar chains. Tone wise, you’ll see darker colors with more traditional patterns like houndstooth and tight plaid. Most men wear spectator shoes – low-heeled brogue oxfords, made in two contrasting colors. 

The Preakness Look

Stick to shades of brown, tan, navy, and other darker colors. Your goal is to look as similar to a Victorian gent as possible.

Third, The Belmont Stakes

The Theme

For the final race of the Triple Crown, get decked out in your best Summer gear. Light, breezy, pastel colors are the norm at the Belmont Stakes. Many of the suits are seersucker suits – suits made of a thin, puckered, cotton fabric. They usually have a thin stripe pattern, but can be solid or other mild patterns as well. Whereas the Kentucky Derby is all about going wild with your fashion, the Belmont Stakes is more relaxed and laid-back. 

The Belmont Look

Imagine you’re dressing for a nice party on the water. You can wear thin cotton suits in light, creative colors (usually pastel). The Triple Crown’s bold Derby looks and sophisticated Preakness looks are topped off with mild, cool fashion at the Belmont Stakes.

Pastel suit for belmont stakes
There’s a general theme for Race Day fashion, but each individual race of the Triple Crown has its own style and personality. You want to look race day ready for each of these events, and with this guide, you’ll fit right in. Most importantly, good luck out there. Here’s to hoping the pony you bet on takes home the prize!
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Summer Men’s Fashion: The Ultimate Style Guide

Palm trees in a beautiful courtyard

Warmer weather and longer days are two tell-tale signs that Summer is near. But, like every season, Summer calls for its own brand of fashion and style that has rules and guidelines just like Fall, Winter, or Spring. That’s where we come in: we’re writing this guide on summer men’s fashion now. That way, by the time Summer has officially begun, you will be ready to rock perfect Summer looks. Whether you’re at dinner with coworkers or at a dock party with friends, we will show you how to dress to impress. Here at HARTTER | MANLY, we specialize in more formal menswear, but we’ll also take some time in this guide to give you some pointers on more casual looks as well.

Yacht with table set

Summer Staples

For the more casual of Summer days, you should have a couple of staple items in your wardrobe. For your upper half, stick with a chambray or a seersucker short-sleeved shirt. Chambray, a thin cotton plain-weave fabric, is an excellent choice for Summer. Seersucker is also a thin cotton fabric. Another benefit of seersucker is that it sits further away from the skin due to puckering in the fabric. Both of these fabrics make your Summer days are as comfortable as possible. Furthermore, use these fabrics in lighter colors for a casual-cool look. Henleys are a great option as well. A Henly is a collarless pullover with a round neckline and a placket at the neck with several buttons.

For your bottom half, try a pair of Chinos. These popular twill-weaved trousers are lighter and more breathable than your standard jeans. Another option if you want to dress up a bit but keep your look comfortable in the heat is a pair of linen pants. There’s a reason light-colored linen pants are a staple of Summer weddings. Day at the beach? Boardshorts are out, but avoid going too short as well. Instead, go for a swim trunk that cuts off at about mid-thigh.

Summer Men's Fashion Outerwear

If the weather happens to be on the breezier side, you’ve got options for outerwear, too. A tried-and-true staple is the overshirt, also known as the shirt-jacket. These are essentially button-up shirts made of a thicker material than your average shirt. They’re not too bulky, and fly under the radar in most situations. Another option is the bomber jacket. The bomber jacket is often leather, with a ribbed, gathered waistband and matching cuffs. It’s great for windy days, but is not hooded, so it’s not as great for rain. If there’s a chance of Summer showers in your neck of the woods, try an Anorak – a water-proof, hooded pull-over. It offers protection from the elements and can be worn with most casual Summer men’s fashion looks.

Accessorize For Summer

HARTTER MANLY Summer Men's Fashion Example

Accessories and headgear? We’ve got you. Backwards snap-backs are on trend this year. Differentiate yourself by grabbing one with a leather strap. Fashion watches with thinner leather bands are great for Summer. For footwear, there are a number of styles you can go for, depending on the situation. If it’s a more casual day, some light-colored all-leather low-top sneakers are a great option, and very in. Heading to a dock party? Your best bet is boat loafers, no socks. Stop by the H | M Shoes and H | M Accessories pages and see what speaks to you. For socks, wear no socks at all during Summer. If you need them, wear short socks only. We’re big fans of Invisasox, a no-show sock brand that displays your shoes front-and-center.

For More Formal Summer Men's Fashion…

Got a wedding to go to? A business dinner? You can stay formal in the Summer warmth, you just have to approach your wardrobe a bit differently. The seersucker fabric we mentioned above is excellent material for suits. A seersucker suit is quite obviously the most common Summer formal wear. It does tend to sit on the more casual side of formal wear, but it is still a viable option. You can wear linen trousers for a more formal look, and you’ll typically want to wear your trousers in a lighter color.

Keep Summer Fashion Light

You’ll be able to find full linen suits, but in the Summer, you can typically get away with wearing light-colored linen trousers, a button-up, and a complementary sport coat. Summer warmth gives you a bit more leeway in formal situations, which means you can rock a look made up of separates. If you prefer darker looks but still want to fit in with Summer fashion, you can wear a darker sport coat and keep your pants and shirt on the lighter side. Accessorize with darker touches as well, like your tie, pocket square, or shoes.

. . .& Keep It Simple

To go all-out for Summer men’s formal wear, you still want to keep it simple. A single-breasted, two-button suit, with a simple notch lapel is a timeless look. Cotton-linen blends are preferred for their temperature mitigating properties, but if you want to go classic, Merino wool is a great option as it’s lighter-weight. The colors you choose will be down to the occasion: evening or more formal events almost always call for darker colors.

Depending on where you live, the Summer months can be pleasantly warm or absolutely sweltering. You don’t have to suffer through Summer events in stifling, sweat-inducing fabrics: we’ve laid out these pointers for how to stay comfortable and look great during the Summer months.
David Manly in The Revolutionary HARTTER MANLY tan suit
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The Ultimate Wedding Attire Guide for Grooms: Suiting Up on Your Big Day

Groom tying dress shoes

There are few events more important in a man’s life than the day he gets married. So of course, you’ll need to look your best. But where does a groom start when choosing wedding attire? There are so many factors, so many options, and, it seems, so many unspoken rules about wedding day attire. We’re going to break all of these down for you, to make suiting up on your big day a breeze.

Wedding party posing on stairs

First Step of Wedding Attire: Tux or Suit?

There are two standard clothing options for grooms on their big day: the suit and the tuxedo, and which one you choose depends on a large number of factors. Is it an evening wedding or a day wedding? Summer or winter? A more formal affair or more casual?

The most important factor is the dress code of the wedding itself. Are you tying the knot in a black-tie evening affair? Or is this a more relaxed wedding, maybe taking place during the day? What are your partner’s wedding party wearing? Bridesmaids in cocktail dresses typically call for a more relaxed suit, while floor-length gowns call for a tux.

And what exactly is a tuxedo, anyway?

There are two elements that are almost always found in tuxedos: satin detailing, and a shawl lapel. The satin details are often found on the lapel, the buttons, and in a stripe down the side of the trousers. The shawl lapel differs from peak and notch lapels in that it is one continuous panel that drapes in a curve up the chest, over the shoulders, and around the neck, rather than the sharp edges and separate pieces found in peak and notch lapels.

Posing in jacket near window

HARTTER | MANLY’s Tuxedo, The Hawkeye, is an example of a classic tuxedo. The Hawkeye is available for purchase, rental, or customization.

A Suit Means Options

If your wedding dress code doesn’t call for a tuxedo, then you’ll most likely be wearing a suit. This presents its own challenge, as suits come in all shapes, fabrics, colors, and patterns. In this case, you will want to consider more than just the general dress code. You’ll want to consider the time of day, the time of year, the weather, the attire of the wedding parties, and of course, thoughts your partner may have about your wedding attire.

The Color

For most weddings in most situations, a more neutral color in your suit, royal-blue or light gray, is perfect, and you can add color and patterns in your tie, shirt, or pocket square. You’ll want to wait on picking up these aspects of your suit until you and your partner have determined your wedding colors. You don’t have to match exactly, but it’s wise to stick with the same general color scheme for consistency. Here at HARTTER MANLY, we can match the suit accents like the buttonhole stitch and lining to bridesmaid dresses, to keep the whole wedding party looking cohesive.

The Location

If your wedding is on the beach and/or in the Summer, you can typically rock a look that’s a bit more casual. We see a lot of white button-downs, khakis, and linens. Whether or not you want a two-piece or a three-piece suit depends on event formality. A more formal wedding is an appropriate time to wear a vest with your suit.

The Wedding Party

While some still prefer to have the groom’s suit match the groomsmen perfectly, there has been more deviation from this norm in recent years. Grooms are standing out from their groomsmen by wearing different colors, styles, or details. You will want your party to look organized and put-together on your big day. We recommend not doing too much to stand out from your groomsmen. Instead, use smaller details to identify yourself as the groom at your wedding. A vest is a great way to stand out, and you can use a slightly different shade of the same color as your suit. We usually recommend going slightly lighter for the vest. A unique tie, bowtie, pocket square, or boutonniere can make you stand out as the groom without being too loud.

HARTTER | MANLY shoes beauty shot

Accessorize the Right Way

Accessories will take your wedding look to the next level, but there is definitely a right way and a wrong way to go about it. The only accessory you absolutely need is obviously your shoes. You’d look pretty silly without those, but picking the wrong shoes can make you look just as out of place. Our dress shoe collection is the perfect match for your wedding look.

The Right Shoes For Your Wedding Attire

The most commonly worn shoes by grooms on their big day are the Oxfords. But you can’t just throw on any old pair. Your shoes should coordinate with your suit, and there are some general rules that can guide your choice in footwear. For a black or dark gray suit, your best bet is a pair of black leather OxfordsIf you’re wearing a navy suit, or another lighter color, brown Oxfords are a great choice. Not only that, but brown oxfords are a little more modern than the traditional black. Want to really stand out? Try a pair of two-toned Oxfords, patent leather, or even a single or double monk strap. Each of those options add a touch of pizzazz.

Accessories to Complement Your Wedding Attire

For watches or other metal accessories, you want them to be the same color or material as the others. Typically, they should all match your ring. For example, if you’ve got the traditional gold ring, you’ll want a gold casing for your watch. Also, if you want to add cufflinks or a tie-bar, they should be gold too. The same goes for leather goods. If your watch comes with a leather band, you’ll want to make sure it matches your shoes and belt.

Wedding day accessories

Looking great on your big day doesn’t have to be a complicated process. The most important thing is making sure you’re comfortable and you feel good, and your look goes with the rest of the wedding party. You can design your dream suit with our 10,000+ customization options so that you look exactly how you want. Starting this year, we also offer suit rentals so you can look great without breaking the bank. 

We’ve got two of our top selling suit available for rent. Our royal-blue peak lapel suit, The Charlotte Spirit, and our stunning black tuxedo, The Hawkeye are both available. These are great wedding options, whether you’re going Black Tie or want to go a bit more bold. We’ve given you some basic tips here, but remember: it is your big day. Make your look your own for a wedding you’ll never forget. Want more pointers/tips for your wedding day? Book a free appointment with our style experts.