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Fall Wedding Ideas: The Ultimate Groom Style Guide For Autumn

Menswear for Fall Weddings

Fall Wedding Basics

Fall is fast approaching, and with it, the Fall wedding season. Are you and your partner looking to have a wedding in September, October, or November? Does the idea of cooler weather, darker color palettes, or a rustic theme appeal to you? Late Summer is commonly accepted as the most popular time of year for weddings, but Fall is not far behind in popularity, and is also typically a little less expensive and a little easier to book. It is important, however, to make sure your wedding suits the season, from the decor to the color palette to the entrees offered to the venue.

Fall Wedding Themes

Ideal menswear for fall weddings with a rustic theme

To determine a theme, sit down with your partner and discuss what it is about the Fall that has made you two decide to have your wedding then. Are you fans of the Autumn holidays? Do burnt oranges, rust reds, forest greens, and denim blues appeal to you? Do you enjoy more rustic locations like old farmhouses and churches, lakeside cabins, or deep forests? Brainstorm with your partner what you both love most about this time of year and use that as a basis to determine what you want the focus of your wedding to be. Compared to the breezy, beachy, and carefree themes of summer fashion, popular fall wedding themes are rustic farmhouse, dark forest, and fantasy. Some even embrace the season head-on and do a macabre, Halloween-inspired theme.

Fall Wedding Colors

A man wearing a brown suit for a fall wedding

When you’re putting together a color palette for a Fall wedding, take inspiration from nature. The vibrant colors you see in the leaves as the season progresses are an excellent place to start. Deep oranges, rusty reds, mustard, goldenrod, ashy browns, and burnt umber are all great options. But don’t just take hints from the leaves. Deep, forest greens, royal blues, and slate grays are also great options. Read our Fall Fashion guide for more information about fall theme colors.

HARTTER | MANLY boasts a collection of suits in gorgeous fall colors. In addition, we can design virtually any style you can dream of.

Fall Wedding Venues

When it comes to wedding venues, your options are vast. The best way to pick a venue for a Fall wedding is to think about what would go with your theme. Rustic farmhouses, epic cathedrals with stained glass windows, old libraries, and any of the many types of museums are all great options for a Fall wedding, and it all comes down to the ambience and vibe you want the wedding as a whole to have. If you’re looking for suggestions, an expert wedding planner can help you choose the perfect place.

Fall Wedding Menswear

Fall wedding 3 piece suit

Think About Layers

The slightly cooler weather that comes with the Fall season means layers are in, so a Fall wedding is the perfect time to rock a three-piece suit. A three-piece suit in a brown or similarly red-based shade has an academic look to it that would suit a library or museum wedding, which you can complement by doubling down on the ‘professorial’ look by accessorizing with a pocket watch or some vintage cufflinks. For a more casual look, rustic weddings –  like those that take place in a farmhouse or even in a forest clearing – are great opportunities to rock suspenders and a bowtie instead of a jacket and tie.

Play With Patterns

If you want to stand out, try a pattern or a mismatched jacket/trousers combo. Patterns that are good for fall are houndstooth, large checks, and Glen plaid. If you’re going to go mismatched, keep in mind that you want either the jacket or the trousers to be the statement piece in your look, with the other half being of a lighter or more muted shade. 

Complete The Look

As always, don’t forget to accessorize. Watches are popular for all seasons. In addition, pay attention to your shoes. Flip through our Footwear Style Guide to find your perfect shoe for the occasion. Also, keep in mind that if your suit is in any shade other than black, you can amp up the Fall color theme by wearing brown shoes to accent your look.

Conclusion

There are a lot of fun things you can do for a Fall wedding. There are tons of options, styles, colors and themes that you can pick from – or, you can come up with something totally unique for you and your partner. These are just some jumping off points that can get you inspired to plan the perfect Autumnal wedding celebration. 

Have a fall wedding coming up? Book an appointment with our experts to see how we can turn your vision into reality with your very own custom suit. Our design bar is fully stocked with variety, quality, and durability. We can create the perfect look for every occasion, customized exactly the way you want it.

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Case Study: Ed DeShazer

Ed Deshazer Portrait

A man who is organized and adaptable, Ed DeShazer lives a life of maximum efficiency. It is how he made it this far, and how he continues to find success throughout his life. He always uses his previous successes as launchpads for what comes next, without letting any bit of effort go to waste.

Ed's Story

Born and raised in Milwaukee, Ed was a student athlete who made his way through college on a full-ride athletic scholarship. He’s had an entrepreneurial spirit since he was very young, working on ventures that ranged from food trucks to nightclubs. Ultimately, however, Ed found his passion in education.

Ed Deshazer

Today, he acts as the Executive Director for the Greater Holy Temple Christian Academy, continuing to work towards the goals and principles that the Academy was founded on while simultaneously utilizing his many proficiencies and experiences to improve upon the original vision for the school.

The Academy serves students from all across Milwaukee. To further the capabilities of the Academy in serving its student body, Ed has brought his experience and training in Restorative Practices, which aims to improve and repair the relationships between people and communities. In this way, Ed and the Academy are able to do more than just educate students. They are able to heal and further develop the communities that these students come from.

Ed DeShazer

Case Study: Efficiency

Efficiency is the name of the game for Ed DeShazer. The traditional mall shopping experience is not his preferred method of building his wardrobe – it can be messy, exhausting, and ultimately does not even provide maximum quality. So Ed needed to find something different. Something better.

Enter David Manly. After becoming friends in college, Ed and David continued their relationship as they moved into adulthood and began their respective ventures, which eventually necessitated Ed upgrading his wardrobe. And David had the solution in HARTTER | MANLY. Thus, a partnership was born.

 

Ed DeShazer Case Study

Ed & HARTTER | MANLY

Ed appreciates the ease and efficiency the HARTTER | MANLY experience offers. After purchasing several suits from the H | M catalogue when he was first building his business wardrobe out of college, Ed knew he had a reliable outfitter to help him with his wardrobe. A self-identified minimalist who likes to stick with what works, Ed found comfort in the fact that his measurements were kept on file, dispensing the need to take new measurements each time he needed a new suit. Ultimately, this made his wedding – normally a stressful time for most – a walk in the park.

HARTTER MANLY custom wedding suit lining

Ed is a singular type of man, with a look that is all his own. So on his wedding day, he knew he needed a suit that was all his own as well. With the guidance of HARTTER | MANLY’s style experts, Ed was able to design a custom suit just for him, without any hassle. Ed knew his wedding was a day he’d never want to forget, so he designed his custom suit with this in mind. Now, he has a physical token that holds the memories of the best day of his life.

Ed DeShazer and Bride

A Gift for Groomsmen (& Women!)

Ed wanted to do something nice for his groomsmen (and groomswoman) as well. In lieu of a traditional gift for those who would stand beside him on his wedding day, Ed elected to purchase a suit for each member of his wedding party. The ease and adaptability of H | M’s made-to-measure fitting allowed for each individual member of his wedding party to look great in a suit that fit them perfectly. This even included his groomswoman, who was able to have her suit made just for her body, without having to worry about differences in cut or style.

Ed DeShazer and groomsmen

Case Study: Conclusion

With HARTTER | MANLY, Ed is able to continue to work towards his goals and look great doing it, without having to worry about hassle, snags, or hold-ups. A luxury-level experience with ease-of-use and efficiency to spare is what makes HARTTER | MANLY the perfect choice for Ed DeShazer when he’s looking to suit up.

Ed DeShazer in custom Hartter Manly Suit
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Custom Suit Interlining Options

All of Hartter Manly's suits come with half canvas as standard. Image shows two men in suits and overcoats with half and full canvas interlining.

Suits are complex things. There are many aspects that go into constructing a quality suit. From the lapel roll to the cuff break to the interlining, you’ll have a lot of choices when designing your custom suit. Today we’re going to talk about custom suit interlining options. That is, the options you have for the lining that holds your suit together.

What exactly IS interlining?

At its core, interlining is the layer of fabric that goes between the inner and outer layers. It’s what allows the suit to hold shape, kind of like a skeleton. But as with many things in life, there are different levels of quality when it comes to interlining. In the end, what kind of fit your suit has all depends on the suit’s construction. In turn, many times the construction depends on the price point you’re willing to work with.

Price points for custom suits

Suits can vary greatly in price. You can find some suits as low as $50, and some go up to far beyond a several thousand. There are many different factors that go into deciding a suit’s price, and one of them is the interlining type. There are two main variations on suit interlining: fused, and canvas.

Full canvas vs half canvas and other custom suit interlining options
via joebutton.com

Interlining Options

Fused: Cheap in price AND quality

A fused interlining is a thin sheet of fabric (usually wool) heated and pressed between the inner and outer layer. It’s cheap and easy to produce, which means that suits constructed with a fused interlining are usually less expensive. In fact, roughly 95% of off the rack suits are fused. But there are several downsides to getting a suit with a fused interlining.

Since a fused interlining attaches directly to the inner and outer layer, it can feel pretty stiff. In addition, it is also less breathable. So not only will you be hot, you will also be sweating a lot. More sweat of course means more dry-cleaning. Over time, excessive dry cleaning will start to break down the interlining altogether, and that will diminish the suit quality and the fit. With a broken down interlining, the outer fabric layer will bubble up. The fit will get less flattering. Instead of forming to your movements, your suit will sit on top of your body and will sag.

Canvassed: High-class, high price

If you’re looking for a better fit and don’t mind shelling out a bit more cash, consider getting a canvassed suit. Canvassing is a form of interlining where a layer of fabric lays between the inner and outer layers of the suit. While canvassing fabric is usually linen or horse hair, other variations exist. Since the interlining only makes contact at the points where it is sewn, a canvassed suit is very breathable compared to a fused suit. It will move and shift with your body. Even better, the more you wear it, the better it will fit as it begins to mold to your shape.

Full canvas

Compared to a fused interlining, a canvassed suit is both more expensive to produce, and more time-consuming to construct. As a result, you will definitely see the quality reflected in the price. If you are going to a tailor to have a bespoke suit made, be sure to check that they will be creating a canvassed suit for you. There’s no point in paying to have a bespoke suit made with a fused interlining. That would entirely defeat the purpose of having a custom fit.

Diagram showing the difference between full canvas suit and half canvas suit. Both are excellent custom interlining options for your suit.

Half canvassed: A healthy middle

If you’re interested in a canvassed suit but can’t quite afford the price, consider a half canvassed suit. This suit is constructed with a combination of both fused and canvassed interlining. You will have canvas interlining through the chest, lapel, and down to the pocket. The lower half of the jacket is fused. Fused interlining on the lower half is alright since the drape isn’t quite as important there. It’s okay to let the suit taper down so that it has freer motion. You want to retain the heavier structure on upper half of your jacket, where it can serve its purpose. The canvas interlining must form to your shape to accentuate it. That, after all, is the point of a well-fitted suit.

How can you tell what custom suit interlining options you’re working with?

If you’ve found a suit you’re interested in and want to know what kind of interlining it has, you can use the ‘pinch test’. Use two fingers of each hand to pinch and separate the inner and outer layer on the chest. If you can feel a third layer in between, then the suit has a canvas interlining. If you can’t feel a third layer, it is because the suit has a fused interlining. 

Which Custom Suit Interlining Option Should You Choose?

In virtually all situations, a canvassed suit is the way to go. Canvas gives the best fit and drape, and the longest lasting suit. As mentioned above, the more you wear a canvassed suit, the more it will adjust to your body. The fit will actually improve over time. While fused is a more economical option, we think your best bet is to go at least half canvassed. It makes a big difference if you’re looking for a proper fit. Though canvassed suits are not the cheapest choice, they will last longer and only look better as time goes on. If you can, splurge. At the very least, go half canvassed. Your closet, and your body will thank you.

HARTTER MANLY's Custom Suit Interlining Options

HARTTER MANLY’s entry level suits are half canvas. Since we choose to only produce the highest quality garments, we offer you an upgrade to full canvas at cost. That means you get the absolute best price on full canvas interlining. Because of our pricing, 90% of our customers pick full canvas for their custom suits and jackets.

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Lapel Varieties: What They Are and When to Wear Them

Lapel varieties example of notched lapels. Both men wear stunning custom suits with perfectly measured lapels.

The lapel is one of the most noticeable aspects of a suit. It works to frame your shape and draw the attention of a viewer’s eye to preferred features and attributes. There are many lapel varieties and they each work for you a bit differently; they are each suited for different occasions and each do different things to work with your shape and features.

Lapel varieties diagram. This diagram shows The Slim Notch, Notch, Slim Peak, Peak, and Shawl lapels

Lapel Varieties: The Basics

Before we get into the different styles, let’s discuss the basics of lapels. Just what exactly is a lapel? A lapel is the matching parts on each side of the jacket, right below the collar, where the fabric folds back towards the shoulders. The average width for a lapel is 3.5 inches, but they can range anywhere from 2 to 5.

Which Width?

Slim lapel varieties

Skinny lapels have rapidly risen in popularity in recent years: they are very on trend, but it’s important to know what width is best for your body. Slim lapels work best on slim guys. If your frame is more on the broad side, avoid the slim lapel, as the proportions will be off and your body will overwhelm the lapel, making it look like it doesn’t fit properly.

Wider lapel varieties

Wider lapels – in the 4 to 5 inch range – typically work best with broad frames. However, that’s not to say skinny guys should avoid them entirely. If you go slightly wider than average with your lapel as a skinnier guy, you can broaden your frame. Just don’t go too wide since that can let the lapel swallow your look.

Lapel Varieties: A Lapel for Every Man

Now that we’ve covered how to find the correct lapel width for your body and situation, let’s talk about lapel varieties, or the different styles of lapels. The three types of lapels are notched, peak, and shawl. They each best work with different suit styles and on different shapes. Here are the need-to-know basics of the different styles.

The Notched Lapel

A notched lapel is the most common type of lapel. It is called notched because the two layers of the lapel meeting together form a sideways V-shape, or a ‘notch’. It’s the easiest to produce, and therefore the cheapest, but it’s also preferred for most everyday suits. 

When to wear it

You’ll want to wear a notched lapel on a single-breasted suit. It is the standard lapel found on most suits directly off the rack. It is wonderfully versatile and works for most business attire, nice dinners, and other semi-formal events. If you only have one suit, make it a notch, as it will work for most events.

What to look for

When selecting a suit with a notched lapel, you want to look at the size of the notch in comparison to the width of the lapel. They should be in even proportions: if you have a slim lapel, you want a smaller notch. If the lapel is bit wider, look for a larger notch. This helps keep the look balanced, and ensures that the lapel doesn’t overwhelm the jacket.

An example of a peak lapel. Though you have many lapel options with HM, we favor peak lapels as standard for most of our suits.

Peak Lapel Design

The second lapel variety is the peak lapel. It is called the peak because the lower half of the lapel has corners that angle upwards towards the shoulders. Those corners form a “peak” on each side of the jacket. It’s the most expensive style because of all the angles involved in production, but it’s got an edge to it that will always make you stand out.

When to wear it

The peak lapel is excellent for shorter frames because the upward angle of the peak draws the eye upwards, visually adding more height to your frame. It’s also good for more heavyset gents, for the same reason – drawing the eye up and lengthening the frame. Peak lapels are great for more formal events or situations: executive-style business meetings or functions, galas, formal weddings, or parties that call for evening-wear.

What to look for

For the width of a peak lapel, you want to avoid going too slim. That’s because it can look cluttered and you can lose some of the detail when making a peak too small.

A man looking more formal in a black shawl lapel

Shawl Lapel: For Men in Black

The shawl lapel foregoes any edges; it rounds out in a continuous curve, no notches or peaks to be found. It is best to opt for a thinner, slimmer lapel if you’re going to be wearing a shawl style jacket – it makes for a sleek look. Shawl lapels aren’t the best choice for heavier guys or those with a round face, as the curve of the lapel can accentuate the curves of the body and face. The shawl lapel is almost always limited to tuxedos and black tie events – it’s used in only the most formal of situations.

A Final Note About Lapel Varieties

As we’ve discussed here, lapels are important. They are one of the most stand-out aspects of a suit and the lapel varieties require quite a bit of consideration when you’re browsing for your look. There are many things to consider, the most major ones being your shape, the lapel width, and the lapel style. Now that we’ve discussed the basics, and some of the more in-depth concepts surrounding lapels and the lapel varieties that are available, you’re armed with all the info you need to find the perfect lapel, just for you, right here at HARTTER MANLY. Check out some of the lapel varieties on our Suits or Sports Jackets.

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Custom Suit Online: Build A Suit Just for You

Detail photo of custom suit

Every guy needs at least one quality suit, for all the important events in his life. When it comes to quality, you can grab something off the rack, or you can get a custom suit online. If you want to look and feel your best, then a custom suit is the way to go. When you go custom, you will have a sharp-looking suit that is perfectly made specifically for you. Perfect for both your body, and perfect for your personal style.

One-of-a-kind suits for one-of-a-kind men

When you’re looking to invest in a custom suit, there are a few things you need to keep in mind. The first is where you will be wearing this suit. If you’re only looking to keep one suit in your wardrobe, you will want to have something made that is suitable for most events. In that case, versatility is key when you go custom. If you’re looking to add a new suit to an existing collection you already have, you’ll have to consider what sort of events this suit will be worn to. 

When to go for the custom suit? It all depends

Different occasions call for different styles and elements. The same goes for different seasons. For instance, Fall Fashion varies considerably from Summer Fashion. Additionally, some design elements are better suited to more casual events, while others should only be worn in the most formal of situations. Check out the articles we have in our Gentleman’s Cafe for more information on picking styles and elements for any occasion.

two men in different styles of custom suits. One is wearing an overcoat.

What to consider when you go custom

Go Custom: Your Build

Besides the purpose of the suit and the occasion, another thing you want to consider is your frame and face shape. The benefit of investing in a custom suit over grabbing one off the rack is that your suit will be designed with your shape and structure in mind. A well-made suit can work wonders on a man. For instance, it can accentuate features you love about yourself, and minimize the features you don’t. 

Go Custom: Your Design

The design elements can also speak about who you are as a person and what kind of things you value. Are you a cigar and whisky kind of gentleman, or do you prefer craft beer? Do you prefer to be a quiet observer, or do you want to be the center of attention? The design elements of a suit – like the lapel style and width, or the button layout – are vital details. That’s because they can all send subtle, silent signals to the people you meet about what kind of man you are. 

Buying Your Custom Suit Online

When you go custom with HARTTER MANLY, you are in charge of the design and construction process. You’re in control from start to finish. And what you get is a one-of-a-kind suit for you, a one-of-a-kind guy. Our stylists walk you through all the steps of designing your suit, from the fabric, buttons, accents, and more, all online.

Can You Really Buy a Custom Suit Online Though?

HARTTER | MANLY Custom Suits Online: Superior Quality

Here at HARTTER MANLY, we create a custom suit experience that leaves you with a suit of impeccable quality, designed with your stylistic choices and measurements to ensure the best fit possible. We use European fabrics and have over 3,000 swatches available to choose from. Most of our suits are 100% wool, but we also offer cashmere and silk blends, to build a suit for you that makes the exact statement you’re looking to put out into the world. Our suits come with a half canvassed interlining (check out our article in the Gentleman’s Cafe for more information on interlining), but you can upgrade to a full canvas suit for an even better fit that will mold to your body with more with time and wear.

Go custom online with HARTTER MANLY for the options

Your suit from H|M will be a lasting investment: half and full canvas suits last much longer, and don’t lose their shape the way fused suits do. And the interlining of your suit is not the only choice you get to make. Designing your custom suit online through H|M, you will make all the choices: do you want your side-arm buttons glued or stitched? What color do you want your stitches to be? Do you want them to blend in or stand out as an accent? Need a suit to perfectly match a bridesmaid’s dress? We got you. Every style and fit choice is up to you, ranging from lapel types to button layouts to vents. Make those choices and watch your perfect suit come to life.

Here's an example:

Custom Suit Online Tool

With our online customizing process, you choose everything. From the number of buttons, down to the slant of the pocket and more. You’re the boss when you go custom.

Go custom with HARTTER MANLY for the fit

We fit better

Everyone is different, in endless ways. We go beyond chest, waist, and shoulders, because even if two people have the same basic measurements, no two shapes are identical. Bespoke suits are considered the top-of-the-line in menswear, but they have some drawbacks. They’re expensive (we mean expensive) and they’re a hassle. They take multiple fittings and require you to head into the tailor at least three times before your suit is complete. (Compare to no visits when you buy your custom suit online!) 

They work from scratch, not from a pattern, for a better fit. However, if you get your suit designed with a menswear provider that uses many measurements, you’ll get just as great a fit. Most importantly, it’s at a much friendlier price-point and comes with a lot less hassle. 

Our suits have that perfect-fit-feeling

In addition, having a suit tailored to your body and shape will do more than fit great – it will give you a unique wearing experience that you won’t find with any suit you grab off the rack. Not only do our suits look fantastic, they feel fantastic. You will find it easier to move in and it won’t feel claustrophobic or hot.

Made-to-Measure

HARTTER MANLY custom suits online are made-to-measure. Specifically, they build off of existing patterns and use your personal measurements to make the required adjustments. In addition, we use 70+ measurements where most M2M suit providers will use 10 to 15.  That brings you a perfect fit that doesn’t break the bank and doesn’t take multiple fittings. Using this many measurements minimizes the likelihood that you’ll need it adjusted. Since you don’t have to take your new suit in to a tailor, there’s no waiting. You can take your suit out on the town as soon as it arrives at your door.

Examples of hair styles on longer faces

Make a statement

At the end of the day, investing in a suit is important. So why should you buy a custom suit online? A custom suit can make you stand out at any event. With fit and design crafted to your exact specifications, going custom makes a statement about your identity and your personal style. Moreover, it will fit like a second skin and make you look and feel like the best version of yourself. A suit says a lot about a man. What is your suit saying?

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Best Hairstyle for Your Face Shape

Long hairstyle example. A man wearing pink suit with long hair style that complements his face shape.

Haircuts are important

They say a lot about who you are as a person. But just as important is ensuring that your hair works with what you’ve got. It’s not a one-size-fits-all situation: different styles work with different face shapes. Like you want your suit to work with your body, you want the best hairstyle for your face shape. The best hairstyle will use angles, lengths, and textures to accentuate features you love and minimize features you’re not such a fan of. 

First Step to Your Best Hairstyle?
Your Face Shape

There are six standard types of face shapes: heart, square, rectangle, oval, round, and diamond. There are a few other shapes that are more rare, but they are more subdivisions of these basic face shapes and the same principles apply.
face shapes example showing Round Face Shape, Oval face shape, Diamond face shape, Square face shape, Heart face shape, and Rectangle face shape.

Round Face Shape

A round face has similar width at the forehead and chin, with rounded edges. That means that  the cheekbones are the widest part of the face.

Oval Face Shape

An oval face is similar to round, in that it has rounded edges at the forehead and chin. The main difference is that the length of the face is a bit longer. In this case, the face is longer than it is wide. Like a round shape, the widest part of the face is the cheekbones

Diamond Face Shape

A diamond face also has the widest part of the face being the cheekbones, but the forehead and the chin come to points. Compared with an oval face, a diamond face has a more drastic angle inward.

Square Face Shape

Square faces are just that: squares. They typically have similar widths the whole way down. The forehead, cheekbones, and jaw are all about the same distance apart. Additionally, this face shape has a relatively flat chin. The length of the face is close to the width going across, which gives it a uniform shape.

Heart Face Shape

Heart face shapes have broad foreheads and pointy chins. The lines follow an inward trajectory the whole way down from top to bottom. Therefore, the widest part is at the forehead and the narrowest part is the tip of the chin.

Rectangle Face Shape

Rectangle faces, like squares, have similar widths going from top to bottom. The difference is that the overall length is a bit longer than the width.

Man in peak lapel suit with tightly cropped hairstyle

Fear Not: You Have Options

Hairstyles for Round Face Shapes

For the sides

If you have a round face, your best bet is to keep the sides short. However, it’s crucial that you don’t round out the haircut where the top meets the sides. You want to have a sharper angle in that transition to create the illusion of more angles in your face. Additionally, it’s best to keep the top a bit fuller. Buzzing it will only accentuate the curve at the top of your head, which widens the cheekbones, which most men want to minimize if they are the widest part of the face.

Up top

Keep a bit of length up top. You have a number of options, but as long as the top is longer than the sides and the intersection of the two has an angle, you’re good to go. You can keep the top spiky and textured, or you can comb it over and slick it back, or you can wear it longer and down over one side of your head. The best hairstyle for your face shape all depends on if you’re going for a more classic look, or something more on-trend and modern.

Hairstyles for Oval Face Shapes

With oval faces, your goal is to balance out the proportions. We know it might seem counterproductive to keep your hair longer on the top and shorter on the sides. But you have to look at the hair and the face in this case as two separate entities. If you have a contrast between the top and the sides, then it will act as its own shape to complement the oval. That is, in contrast to diminishing it or accentuating it.

Hairstyles for Diamond Face Shapes

Diamond faces require some finessing. The best hairstyle for you is one that creates a softer look. Essentially, fewer angles in the hair will balance out the sharp angles of the face. You want the top to be a bit longer than the sides, but don’t make this contrast too drastic. For instance, avoid close fades on the sides. Having a bit more length on the sides will broaden the otherwise narrow forehead. Another thing to avoid is having a fringe that hangs over your forehead. This will make the forehead look narrower than it already is. Keep the sides a bit longer, and the top a bit longer still, but avoid too much contrast. And definitely don’t go too short with the sides.

Hairstyles for Square Face Shapes

Square faces are typically the easiest shape to work with. You have lots of options. The goal is to accentuate your face shape, rather than diminish certain aspects of it. Rejoice! You’ve been blessed. One way to accentuate your face shape is to keep the sides pretty tight. Doing so will highlight the equal proportions you have all the way down your face. You can pretty much do whatever you want with the top. For instance, some things that work especially well are undercuts. An undercut is a style where the top does not connect with the sides, or one in which there is no blending between the top and sides. The undercut is a really fun, edgy haircut that doesn’t work for a lot of shapes. So if you’re interested in rocking it, go ahead! You can get away with it.

Hairstyles for Heart Face Shapes

Heart face shapes have relatively mismatched top and bottom proportions. Therefore, your goal is to balance the two out. The best hairstyle for you has considerable length on the sides. Long sides increase the appearance of width in the cheekbones. One option is to  grow a fringe that sweeps across your forehead, to diminish the width you have there. Or, you can wear it up but keep it proportional to the sides. The goal is to keep the sides and the top at similar lengths. Too short on the sides and it emphasizes the width in the top half, while too long on top makes the upper half appear too heavy. Balancing the lengths on the top and the sides can even out your overall face shape.

Hairstyles for Rectangle Face Shapes

When you have a rectangle face shape, your goal is to avoid elongating your face any more than it already is. In this case, your best best is to keep the top and the sides pretty close in proportion. If you have a look that is more top-heavy, then it will draw out the length of your face. To avoid that, keep the top and the sides at pretty similar lengths. In addition, you don’t have to worry about having too round a transition between the top and the sides, as that will help to balance out the angles of your face.

Examples of hair styles on longer faces

There’s a Hairstyle for Every Man and Every Shape

As you can see, as much as you want to choose a style that suits who you are as a person, it is also crucial that you choose something that works with what you already have. Even for the most difficult face shapes, there are lots of options – the number one thing to remember is your proportions. You can do lots of different things with each of these face shapes, as long as the proportions and length ratios work with your face, rather than against it. The next step is to get your beard groomed to perfection. Use these tips to go forth and get yourself a cut that puts your best foot – and face – forward.

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Footwear Styles for Men

Fashionable brogue footwear style

You’ve got the suit, but to make your look really pop, you need to be sure your footwear matches the statement you’re trying to make. The shoes you wear can make or break a look; that’s why it’s so important to select the right footwear for it. We’re going to talk about different footwear styles for men, and what looks they most complement.

Patina loafers in a circle

Loafers: Penny, Bit, and Tassel

Loafers are among the more casual shoes on this list. They do not have any sort of lacing or fastening system. Instead, they are designed to be slipped on. They are therefore not quite suited for evening wear. Let’s discuss the wide variety of loafer styles, including the penny, the bit, and the tassel.

Penny Loafers

Penny loafers rose to prominence in the 1950s. The name comes from the strap of leather that runs across the forefoot. Specifically, the leather strap leaves a small diamond cut-out that has just enough room for a penny. In the early days of loafers, many men did in fact keep a penny in that slot. Some theories exist about why they kept a penny. One or two pennies could, for instance, buy a call in a phone booth. So obviously you’d be smart to keep some pennies handy!

Tassel Loafers

Compared to penny loafers, tassel loafers are a bit flashier. In addition to the pair of tassels, they also have more decorative lacing across the top. To leave room for the tassels, these loafers typically have lower vamps. The vamp is the piece of leather that covers the space between your toe and ankle. A low vamp is one that ends closer to the toe. A high vamp, on the other hand, ends back towards the ankle, and closer to the middle of the foot. Many people typically consider low vamps as more suitable for those who are up there in years. But really, a man of any age can rock them. Just promise to avoid wearing them with full business suits. You can get away with darker denim or mismatched suit combos.

Bit Loafers

Bit loafers have a bar of metal that runs over the top of the shoe. You may also know them as Gucci Loafers, because Gucci developed the design first. Gucci put the loafers on the market to strike a balance between comfort and style. Specifically, the bit style allows men to wear laid-back footwear to dressier events. If you tend to dress on the more conservative side, you may want to forgo bit loafers when wearing your finest suits. Instead, you can wear bit loafers with dark denim or interesting suit and trouser combos. If you want to make a statement, however, wear them to business meetings. As a general rule, though, bit loafers are not a good match for tuxedos or black-tie events.

Derby wingtip, a.k.a blutcher shoes in light brown

Derby/Blucher

Derbies – or Bluchers, if you prefer – are lace-up shoes, typically lower-cut. They have an open-throat lacing system. The lacing system on a shoe depends on two elements: the vamp, which we mentioned above, and the quarters. The vamp is the piece of leather that sits over the middle portion of the top of the foot. The quarters are the two sides of leather that wrap around the heel and meet at the front of the ankle. In addition, you will see the eyelets located on the front of the quarters.

Open-throat Lacing

Open-throat lacing means that the quarters are on top of the vamp, which leaves the edges of the quarters exposed. Closed-throat lacing, which you will find on Oxfords, means that the quarters are stitched under the vamp. In this case, the edge is not exposed like it is with open-throat lacing.  We will explore more about Oxfords next.

Having the edge of the quarters exposed provides more give and stretch. For that reason, Derbies are great for guys with feet that are on the larger side. As a result of the lacing, however, they are a bit bulkier. As a rule, formal shoes should be more streamlined, so the open-throat lacing is better suited to more casual looks.

Classic oxford shoes for a traditional footwear style

Oxfords

Most people know Oxford as the quintessential business shoe. Oxfords are similar in construction to a Derby shoe, in that they are lower-cut and lace up. But the key difference is that Oxfords have a closed-throat lacing system. As you can see in the above picture, they tend to look a bit neater. Since they are more streamlined, they are well-suited to business looks. This style goes best with matching suits and evening wear. They do, however, have a less forgiving fit. That is due to the lack of give that comes with the closed-throat lacing. Despite that, the Oxfords are the most essential dress shoe to have in your wardrobe.

Monk Straps: Single or Double

Monk straps, by definition, are any shoes that use a buckle closure rather than laces. They come in a variety of styles, but the core concept remains the same. Monks are definitely on the flashier side compared to the other styles we listed. They are less formal than a closed-throat lacing system, but you can dress them up if done properly. For instance, you could wear a pair of black patent leather monk straps with your suit. Essentially any other color or material besides that is better suited to a mismatched suit combo or darker denim. The welt style you choose also affects the look of the shoe.

When to wear single vs. double monk

The double monk strap, then, is a monk strap shoe with two buckles instead of one. Compared to the single, the double gives a contemporary, bold look. Some of the more conservative among us say it’s too flashy. But it’s not too flashy if you’re all about edge and setting yourself apart. If that’s what you want, then the double monk strap is the perfect fit for you. 

Formality

Let’s consider the formality of both styles. Generally, the more ornamentation a shoe has, the less formal it is. As such, most consider the single to be a touch more formal than the double. Experts do not typically advise wearing them to a black-tie event. And you should especially not wear them with a tuxedo. But really it all depends on your level of daring and the message you want to send with your look.

Brogue shoe style with perforations

Brogues

A brogue is any shoe that has decorative perforations in the leather. Contrary to the rule that more ornamentation means less formality, Brogues are more formal than Derbies. However, they are definitely less formal than an Oxford. Instead, brogues occupy the sweet-spot between the two. 

Perforations, Pinking, and Medallions

There are a few different aesthetic elements of brogues: perforations, pinking, and medallions. Perforations are punch-out holes in the shoe leather in a decorative pattern. Pinking is a decorative edge created by pinking shears. In the end, the edge looks like a series of triangles. Medallions are similar to perforations, in that they are also punch-out holes in a decorative pattern. The difference is that you will find medallions specifically on the toe of a shoe. 

Wingtips vs. Longwings

Brogues, as a style, also include wingtips.  Specifically, wingtips are a style in which perforations are on the vamp. They are called wingtips because the decorative perforation is shaped like bird wings. A variation on wingtips is longwings. Compared to wingtips, the ‘wings’ in longwings stretch all the way around the collar of the shoe. All longwings are wingtips, but not all wingtips are longwings. 

When to wear them

Brogues are certainly some of the showiest styles of business footwear available to men. As a result, they identify you as someone who thinks outside the box. While wearing them, you look like someone who has a flair for the flashy. Typically, you will wear wingtips with simple suits. However, there aren’t many circumstances in which it is appropriate to wear them with a tuxedo. That’s because the ornamentation takes away from the streamlined and neat appearance of a tuxedo.

There’s a Shoe for Every Look

We’ve discussed a number of popular footwear styles for men in this article. However, the honest truth is that there are so many more styles out there. The shoes we selected to highlight today were picked because they are most commonly worn with suits. Common footwear styles as these are essential to have in your closet for all the different events you dress up for. One thing is certain: just like suits, there is no one style that is appropriate for every occasion you may find yourself at. Therefore, we’ve gone over these to allow you to build a basic footwear collection. In addition, that footwear collection will complement a wide variety of styles. Check out what is available in the HARTTER MANLY Leather Shop. After all, a look isn’t complete when you put on a suit. It’s complete when you dress yourself up head-to-toe.

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Beard Basics: The Do’s and Don’ts

Man with well groomed beard posing with fist to cheek, showing fashionable watch

Beard Basics

Beards have been on trend for the majority of human history. The first recorded instances of barbering as a profession date all the way back to 5000 B.C. No matter where or when you look in history, facial hair in all its varieties have been staples of men’s grooming and fashion. Considering growing one? Already have one and want to up your beard game? When compared to the hair on your head, a beard is in a league of its own: you also have to treat it right, but there are an entirely different set of rules for facial here. Here are H|M’s beard basics: the do’s and don’ts you always want to keep in mind.

Man being shave with dedicated beard basic products

Beard Basics #1:
Do — Use Dedicated Beard Products

One common mistake men make is using head shampoo on their beard. But you can’t approach beard maintenance with the mentality of “Hair is hair, what does it matter what products I use?” The fact is, the hair on your beard is much different from the hair on your head. It’s thicker, coarser, and more wiry. In order to properly cleanse the hair on your head, hair shampoo strips more of the natural oil your body produces. You need more of those oils in your beard to keep it smooth and nourished. That’s why you need to use a dedicated beard wash. It cleanses the beard and skin underneath without stripping away too much of the oil. And while you’re at it, add a beard conditioner or oil to your beard regimen. Doing so can help supplement your natural oils to keep the beard extra soft and healthy.

Man with clean, beard nicely trimmed

Beard Basics #2:
Do — Focus on Shape, Not Size

A common misconception about beards is the idea that bigger is inherently better. But actually, to make the most of a beard you want it to look neat and tidy. Sure, a thick, full beard is glorious. But if you pay no mind to shaping and trimming it regularly, you will look disheveled at best and like a caveman at worst. This is easily solved by investing in a quality beard trimmer. Or better yet, visiting your local barber. However, if you really must do it yourself, do plenty of research before giving it a go.

Man in white crew neck with long but well kept beard

Beard Basics #3:
Do — Brush Your Beard Daily

Not only will brushing your beard daily help maintain a neat, well-groomed appearance, but it also helps distribute the natural oils through the hair. Natural oils keep it nourished from root to end. Use a wooden, wide-toothed beard comb or a boar-bristle brush. If you want to keep it looking extra clean, blow-dry your beard a few times a week. Brush through your beard from the inside so the bristles face out, and direct the blow-dryer down as your brush through it. Keep the dryer on the warm setting. That’s because too much heat can cause the beard to become brittle. However, no heat at all will keep it from drying in a timely fashion. 

Man with hat and yellow zip up with clean facial hair and groomed neckline

Beard Basics #4:
Don’t — Cut Your Neckline Too High

A quality beard isn’t just about the shape, it’s also influenced by the lines. That is, where the beard stops and starts on your face. Where you place your lines can drastically affect the look of your beard. A common mistake men make is cutting the neckline too high. A simple way to get a clean, well-placed line is to start with a guide. To do it, press your trimmer flat against the line below each of your ears, then work your way to the center. Keep the line balanced along the point where your head meets your neck, just above your Adam’s apple. The angle and lines of your beard should accentuate your jawline, not expose it.

man wearing black notched lapel blazer with clean short beard and mustache

Beard Basics #5:
Don’t — Trim Your Mustache Too Short

Depending on the style you’re going for, mustache widths and lengths vary. One thing to definitely avoid is cutting your mustache too short in comparison to the rest of your beard. Basically, you want the two to be balanced, and keeping the mustache too short can throw that balance off.

Man with well groomed beard and trimmed sideburnssitting on chair holding a magazine

Beard Basics #6:
Don’t — Neglect Your Sideburns

Yes, this is a blog about beards, but the sideburns are also a crucial element. They need to be kept in check, and letting them get too unruly will widen your face. For instance, if you keep a short haircut on the sides and a thick beard, you need to be sure the sideburns taper in between the two lengths. Keep them shorter at the top of the ear and gradually getting longer as you move into the bulk of the beard. While you may be able to trim the bulk of your beard yourself, consider visiting a barber for your sideburns. Tapering sideburns requires a technique that really should be done by someone with experience.

Tools and Products: How to Keep Your Beard Fresh

Through our own research and personal experience, we do have some favorite tools and products to up your beard game. As a note, we are not affiliated with these brands. They are simply products we love, and we want to pass our knowledge of them on to you.

Beard Basics: Tools

There are countless beard trimmers with a wide variety of features on the market. But if you’re looking for one ultimate tool to keep in your arsenal, check out the Hatteker Beard Trimming Kit

Why we love it

You can find it on Amazon for $50, which is a great price even if you were just purchasing the trimmer itself. Instead, you get the trimmer, with an LED battery life display, so you never end up with a dead trimmer and a half shaved beard. Also included in the kit is a hair trimmer head, a beard trimmer head, a detail trimmer head, a body groomer head, a fine-point nose and ear trimmer, and six guide combs (one of which is fully adjustable via a dial). The machine itself also has an adjustment switch to get lengths in between the available comb options. It has a full sixty minutes battery life and has everything you need to look fresh, head-to-toe.

Beard Basics: Products

In terms of products, Billy Jealousy is a brand we’re fans of. They have a whole range of beard-centric products, including waxes, washes, conditioners, aftershaves, oils, and more. They’re made in America, cruelty-free, and use natural ingredients. We love them for leaving harmful sulfates, parabens, and pthalates at the door. If you’re looking to get a collection of beard products going, start with their Devil’s Delight Beard Kit

Beard Envy Products

Why we love it

For only $25, you get full-size bottles of their beard wash and beard conditioner in the Devil’s Delight scent. Devil’s Delight is an intoxicating mash-up of sweet black pepper and sandalwood. It’s a favorite among clients of our barber on staff. Also included in the kit is a boar-bristle brush – densely packed with bristles and soft on the skin. Use the products and brush daily to keep your beard looking fresh.

To sum it up

As mentioned above, beards are a tale as old as time. They’re a men’s grooming staple, and growing one can undoubtedly accentuate your look and make a statement about who you are. But they are their own sort of animal – they require a completely different level of care than the hair on your head. Use H|M’s beard basics tips, tools, and products to put your best face forward, and grow a beard that some men can only dream about. Rock the beard, gentlemen, but always, always remember to do it right.

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Groomsmen Attire: The Ultimate Guide

10 groomsmen hands in a circle showing off embroidered cuffs on custom suits

Your wedding is one of the most important days of your life, and you want everything to be perfect. A big part of that is making sure the wedding party looks great. And that includes the groomsmen attire! The pictures taken will be something you cherish forever. Here is HARTTER MANLY’s guide to ensuring your groomsmen party looks awesome on your big day.

Groomsmen in elegant groomsman attire

Groomsmen Attire Tip #1

Ask yourself what look you want

First, determine what direction you want to go in. That is, do you want a more formal and cohesive look? If you want the look to be tight-knit and styled to a T, you can choose matching groomsmen attire. This is the more traditional option in wedding attire, but it’s not required. Another option is to go for a look that’s more broken up. Doing so allows your groomsmen a bit of freedom to express themselves on your big day. 

How to pull it off

Give them a general guide including the theme of the wedding, color palette, and environment your wedding will take place in. Of course, you’ll want to have them run their final looks by you before they commit. That’s because you don’t want anyone looking straight out of left field. But it can be be a lot of fun to let your groomsmen express themselves. If you do want to go this route, consider including one element that is static for all of your groomsmen. For instance, matching shoes, cufflinks, or pocket squares can really tie the whole image together.
Wedding party posing on stairs

Groomsmen Attire Tip #2

What is the style of the wedding?

Consider the tone, theme, and style of the wedding. The days of requiring three-piece suits in weddings are long gone. What is your wedding dress code? Weddings can have a wide variety of themes, tones, and styles, from beach-themed to rustic to black tie. Considering the theme, you want your party’s attire to match the tone and season of the wedding.  Obviously your guys would stick out like a sore thumb if they wore tuxedos to a beach wedding!

Consider your options for groomsmen attire that go with your theme

While you do want your group to look formal, there are a lot of options for groomsmen attire for any theme imaginable. Doing a rustic theme? Consider forgoing the jackets and dress your guys in suspenders and a bow-tie. Getting married by the sand and the waves? Try lighter linen suits. Are you a country couple? Clean dark denim, a crisp white custom shirt, and cowboy boots look great.  That is, so long as they look neat and tidy. All in all, you want your party to fit in well with the style your wedding is going for.

Wedding Photo with men in vests

Groomsmen Attire Tip #3

Coordinate groomsmen attire with your better half

So you’ve perfected the look of your groomsmen so they blend with your attire. Remember, you need to be sure their look complements your partner’s party as well. Your groomsmen don’t have to match your spouse-to-be’s party perfectly, though. So long as they have similar elements here and there, or common colors, everything will look great. In fact, you do want there to be a little bit of variety between the two parties. All in all, you and your partner’s parties say a little bit about who you each are as people. 

How to do it

The most common way to tie the two parties together is to use elements with similar colors. You can either use colors from the same family, or you can have them use a separate color that is part of your wedding’s color palette. Those same colors and will be used throughout the ceremony in other elements, such as bouquets, seating, or decor. HARTTER MANLY’s customers often match their garment’s button stitch to either the bridesmaids’ dress color, or match the tie and/or pocket square.

Wedding party with matching themed bridesmaid and groomsman attire

Groomsmen Attire Tip #4

Keep the cost of groomsmen attire in mind

Typically, groomsmen pay for their attire themselves, whether they purchase the look or use a rental service. Your groomsmen might come from a different income level than you and even each other, and you want to be sure that you’re not throwing a massive unexpected expense at them. Keep the cost in mind as you’re building your look, and get your groomsmen’s thoughts up front on what they are comfortable paying.

How to manage the cost for your groomsmen

If the party can afford it, purchasing custom suits is always best to create the vision you are going for. You can often get discounted rates for larger parties and share the cost with your groomsmen as part of their groomsmen gift. If purchasing isn’t an option, avoid the boxy brands and go with a shop that understands fit.
A wedding party in elegant groomsman attire by Hartter Manly

Groomsmen Attire Tip #5

Remember every guy is different

Your groomsmen are probably of all different shapes and sizes. You want to pick a look that is going to look great on all of them. If you are worried about the look you pick being unflattering on certain guys in your party, consider giving them the basic parameters – color, fabric, elements like tie and pocket square – and then allow them to find a fit that works for their shape. In a situation where they are all of vastly different shapes, it may be a good idea to go with the concept we mentioned at the beginning: having them all wear different things with some smaller elements in common, or go the custom fit route.

Tying it all together

There’s a lot of work that goes into making your big day perfect for you and your partner. Every single element says something about you two as people and your relationship as a whole. Dressing the wedding party is one of the most important aspects of creating a wedding to remember, and there are many different approaches you can take when crafting your look. Sit down with your guys and your better half and talk about the style and tone you want your wedding to have, deliberate a bit, and use these guidelines to create the perfect look for your big day. If you are interested in renting versus buying, check out HARTTER MANLY’s Rental Options. Happy planning!

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The Right Fit: Ensuring Your Suit Works for You

David at a cafe table

The Right Fit

Suits can be tricky: there are a lot of nuances in suit construction and fit that can make or break a look. No matter the dress code, the jacket, shirt, and trousers all have a variety of aspects that must work together for the suit to look well-fitted and neat. Today, we’re going to look at the different elements of a suit, and talk about how to determine if your pieces have a proper fit. If you are in need of a new suit immediately, check out our suit selection that we can customize to get the right fit for you. You can also read up on our guide to your first custom suit.

How to look for the right fit

First, when trying on your suit, you want to make sure you are standing in what is called the ‘natural stance’. In such a stance, you stand straight with your feet placed slightly apart and your arms hanging loosely by your sides.

Row of suits to chose the right fit

The Right Fit: The Jacket

The jacket easily has the most elements that you need to consider when analyzing the fit of your suit. You must consider the space around the button, the collar, the sleeves, and the back panel, which includes the vents and length. The most important aspect of a jacket’s fit is the shoulders, because they act as the framework for the rest of the jacket and its drape over your body.

The Fit on The Shoulders

The shoulders should lie flat, with no ripples or lumps. Ripples or lumps are indicative of shoulders that are either too long or too short.

If the shoulders are too short, lumps appear because the edge of the suit shoulder pulls back over the the top of your actual shoulder. On the other hand, when the shoulders of a suit are too long, excess cloth hangs over the edge of your shoulder.  The excess cloth forms lumps and ripples.

As a guide, wear shoulders that are slightly wider than your own shoulders. Doing so ensures there is room for the meeting between the shoulder and the arm to rest over the dress shirt without pulling taut.

Man with suit and floral tie. The suit shows the right fit.

How Do The Buttons Fit?

Next, look at the buttons. If you’re in your ‘natural stance’, fasten at least one of the buttons. How does the jacket look when it’s stretched around your torso? If the lapels hang down and angle off your chest, the fit is too loose. If the jacket material pulls the button taut and the bottom corners of the jacket are flare outwards, it is too tight. As with the shoulders, you want no strain and no wrinkles.

The Collar Fit

Your collar is somewhat similar. If it’s too loose, it will hang back and won’t rest flat against your neck. If it’s too tight, it will bunch around the collar. You want it to rest against your neck and be closely fitted, but not too snug. You should be able to fit one or two fingers in between the collar and your neck itself. A poorly fitting collar could be because the size of the collar isn’t right for your body. Other reasons could be due to poorly fitted shoulders or an incorrect size for the back panel.

The Right Fit of the Back and Vents

Speaking of the back, the length should fall just along the curve of the buttocks. From the side view, the bottom hem of the jacket should sit right at the middle of the hand. The vents of the back panel should be sitting flat. That is, they should not pull outwards. If they do, then the fit is too tight. The sleeves come down to one thing: the amount of shirt cuff that is showing underneath the cuff of the jacket. You want there to be about half an inch of shirt cuff peeking out.

A man wearing a properly fit suit jacket.

The Right Fit: The Shirt

The shirt is not quite as complicated as the jacket, even though it obviously contains many of the same elements that the jacket does. Much like the jacket, the collar should be snug, but there should be room for one or two fingers.

The Shoulder Fit

Compared to the jacket, the shoulders of the shirt should be an even closer fit. You don’t want any over-extension at the point where the shoulder meets the arm. Therefore, it should be as close a fit as possible without being tight. That’s because if the shirt is too tight, the shoulders will bunch up.

The Right Length

The shirt sleeves should end at the break of the wrist. You can identify the break as the point where the large wrist-bone is. Stylists recommend having about a half-inch of shirt cuff peeking out from underneath the jacket sleeve. The shape of the shirt should be slim against your torso with a natural taper near your waist. For shirt length, you want enough extra fabric to easily tuck the shirt in. Not only that, but there should be enough that if you lift your arms, it won’t untuck on its own. A good guide is that the extra fabric should reach the v-shaped panel at the top of the inseam.

Man in pink suit

The Right Fit: The Trousers

The Waist and Seat

The waist of your trousers should be snug, but not tight. They should stay up on their own without a belt. The seat should rest flat against the undergarments, without pulling tight or draping too loosely. If the seat is too tight, you will have lines just under the buttocks where the fabric is stretching. If it is too loose, the extra fabric will drape down over your thighs.

How Should Trouser Legs Fit?

The fit of the legs should be straight, with a very slight taper as the pant moves down the leg. They definitely should not flair out, but they also shouldn’t end up too tight around the ankle. That is, unless you want to look like a skater wearing skinny jeans. You want the legs to taper at a slight inward tilt, but still have room for movement. The ‘break’ – or the point where the hem of your pant meets the top of your shoe – is the most crucial part of a trouser fit. You want it to just rest on the top of your shoe. It should result in a slight inward dip right above the front of the pant leg. The break should hit right where the two elements meet.

Man in blue suit standing on stairs. The suit has the right fit through the trousers

The Elements Combined

When you put all of these together, a description of the right fit seems a bit redundant, but it’s the truth: you want everything to lie flat, for the majority of the elements. If your pieces are too tight or too loose, it will cause ripples, strains, and lumps that diminish the elegance you hoped to convey by wearing a suit in the first place. Now that we’re tying it all together, these things seem obvious, but we hope that the specific guidelines we’ve put forth here will help you look at all the elements individually, so that you are left with a perfect fit, every time.

Your Perfect Fit

Ready for your perfect fit? When we make our custom suits, we alter a pattern with your exact measurements. The pattern fits your body before we start constructing the suit, which produces a suit that’s a perfect fit. Even better, our H|M Mobile Tailor calculates your precise measurements down to a millimeter straight from home. All it takes is two photos from your smartphone camera.