Category: All

Posted on by

How to Find the Best Suit For Your Body Type

Man with oval body shape

As we all know, menswear is not a one-size-fits-all business. You have to make sure your measurements are correct so your suit drapes well over your body. But something a lot of gents don’t consider is the body type they have. Everyone is shaped differently, and there are different details and elements of suit design that will lend themselves to certain body types. We’re going to break down some of the most common body types. In addition, we will go over exactly what details will complement your shape.

Body Types and Shapes

Three main male body shapes. Rectangle, triangle, and oval.

There are a number of different shapes that most people fall under. The first is the triangle, where the widest part of the body is the hips. As we travel up the chest, the torso narrows, resulting in shoulders that are not as wide as the hips.

Second is the inverted triangle. In this shape, the broadest part of the body are the shoulders, and the torso narrows in from there.

An oval shape – also known as the apple – has hips and shoulders that are about equal, with a rounded torso.

Lastly is the rectangle. The shoulders and hips are about the same width, with a torso that extends straight down from top to bottom. It is considered the most proportionate, with no part being broader or narrower than any other.

If Your Body Type is a Triangle...

Man with a triangle body shape

Shoulders

Selecting a suit for your shape means finding a structure that evens out your proportions. In the case of the triangle, you want your suit to beef up your shoulders. Find a jacket that has a strong, rigid structure in the shoulders so that it creates a broader shape. The structure is important, rather than the size. A jacket that is too large will collapse over the shoulders and break up the shape and lines of your chest. This could make you look like a child playing dress-up in your Dad’s Sunday best.

Torso

The abdomen is the next concern. You want to simultaneously emphasize your shoulders and downplay the middle of your torso, where your waist narrows. Single-breasted suits are best in this situation – they are lighter and not as bulky as a double-breasted suit. The many embellishments that are present on the chest of a double-breasted suit draw the eye towards it, which you want to avoid. 

Legs

If you’re a triangle, you want to create an even silhouette all the way down your body. Opt for trousers that are wide-legged and uniform the whole way down, instead of tapering. This will draw attention away from the widest part of your body – the hips. This will create the appearance of an even silhouette.

Man with inverted triangle body shape

The Inverted Triangle Body Type

Understandably, a lot of the advice for this body type is going to be the opposite of what we listed above. 

Inverted Triangle Body Type: Shoulders

Find a jacket with shoulders that are less structured, to restore some balance to your figure. You also want to utilize a narrower lapel, as wide lapels tend to bulk up the chest and shoulders. A double-breasted suit will add some bulk to your middle and create more balance between your waist and your shoulders.

Inverted Triangle Body Type: Legs

For your legs, a well-tailored trouser with the slightest of tapers will work well with your shape. This avoids emphasizing the considerable differences in the widths of your upper and lower halves.

Man with oval body shape

The Oval Body Type

Dressing for this shape should focus on drawing attention away from the middle of the body to create a more balanced silhouette. It is a mistake to buy a suit that is simply bigger all around. It will be a tight fit around your middle and be baggy everywhere else, emphasizing the width of your torso. To counteract this, you have to take care to tailor your suit in a way that balances out your shape.

Oval Body Type: Shoulders and Torso

As we suggested for the triangle shape, a single-breasted suit will avoid creating bulk and drawing focus to your middle. Tapering your jacket at the waist while rocking well-structured shoulders draws attention away from your torso. A standard-width peak lapel will add balance to your chest and draw the eye upwards and away from your middle.

Oval Body Type: Legs

Wide, straight-legged pants are your best bet. They will work in tandem with your jacket to create an sleek vertical silhouette.

Man with rectangle body shape

The Rectangle Body Type

Your proportions already have the coveted streamlined vertical silhouette! However, you can complement your shape even further by selecting a single-breasted jacket with a slight inward taper at the middle. Similarly, you can highlight your body’s even proportions by selecting a slim, tapered trouser, adding more depth and contrast to your silhouette. Make sure your sleeves fit well – they should be closely tailored and break at the wrist-bone. This will help ensure you are highlighting your body’s naturally even shape.

Conclusion

Getting a suit that properly fits your measurements is step one. But you can boost your look to the next level by selecting a structure and details that also complement your body’s natural proportions. You deserve a suit that works as hard as you do. Get started on finding the perfect suit with personal styling advice and our expansive suite of customization and design options by booking an appointment now with one of our experts.

Posted on by

The Ultimate Guide To Buying A Custom Suit Online

Detail photo of custom suit

Buying A Custom Suit Online - Where to Start

Every guy needs at least one quality suit, for all the important events in his life. When it comes to quality, you can grab something off the rack, or you can get a custom suit online. If you want to look and feel your best, then a custom suit is the way to go. Learning about the process of buying a custom suit online can help you make a decision about what option is best or you. When you go custom, you will have a sharp-looking suit that is perfectly made specifically for you. Perfect for both your body, and perfect for your personal style. 

One-of-a-kind suits for one-of-a-kind men

When you’re looking to invest in a custom suit, there are a few things you need to keep in mind. The first is where you will be wearing this suit. If you’re only looking to keep one suit in your wardrobe, you will want to have something made that is suitable for most events. In that case, versatility is key when you go custom. If you’re looking to add a new suit to an existing collection you already have, you’ll have to consider what sort of events this suit will be worn to. Buying a custom suit online ensures that you have access to all of the options possible. That is to say, you are not limited by what materials a brick and mortar store carries.

When to go for the custom suit? It all depends

Different occasions call for different styles and elements. The same goes for different seasons. For instance, Fall Fashion varies considerably from Summer Fashion. Additionally, some design elements are better suited to more casual events, while others should only be worn in the most formal of situations. Check out the articles we have in our Gentleman’s Cafe for more information on picking styles and elements for any occasion.

two men in different styles of custom suits. One is wearing an overcoat.

Options Available When You Buy a Custom Suit Online

Go Custom: Your Build

Besides the purpose of the suit and the occasion, something you want to consider is your frame and face shape. The benefit of investing in a custom suit over grabbing one off the rack is that your suit will be designed with your shape and structure in mind. A well-made suit can work wonders on a man. For instance, it can accentuate features you love about yourself, and minimize the features you don’t. When we design your custom suit online, we take your build into account in a few ways. First, we advise you on design options that may complement and enhance your shape. And second, our tailors receive detailed information about your shape based on measurements and images to construct your suit accordingly.

Go Custom: Your Design

The design elements of a suit speak about who you are as a person and what kind of things you value. Are you a cigar and whisky kind of gentleman, or do you prefer craft beer? Do you prefer to be a quiet observer, or do you want to be the center of attention? The design elements of a suit – like the lapel style and width, or the button layout – are vital details. That’s because they can all send subtle, silent signals to the people you meet about what kind of man you are. Our stylists work with you over video chat to learn about your style, whether this is your first custom suit or hundredth. 

Buying Your Custom Suit Online

When you choose a custom suit designed online with HARTTER MANLY, you are in charge of the design and construction process. With guidance from experts, you’re in control from start to finish. And what you get is a one-of-a-kind suit for you, a one-of-a-kind guy. Our stylists walk you through all the steps of designing your suit, from the fabric, buttons, accents, and more, all online.

Your First Online Custom Suit Purchase

HARTTER MANLY has one goal above all: to create a one-of-a-kind tailoring experience for the modern gentleman. Our hybrid method combines bespoke craftsmanship and the speed of made-to-measure.  By doing so, we handcraft each piece to your unique style. Most importantly, we make sure your custom suit tells your story.

Get a Great Fit From Home

The first step towards your perfect custom suit is perfect measurements. With our new technology, you can measure yourself from the comfort of your own home using only your smartphone.

Mobile tailor by Hartter Manly how it works

Custom Suit Measurements, No Photographer Necessary

With our HARTTER MANLY Mobile Tailor‘s hands-free option, you don’t even need a friend to take the photos for you. Get every measurement down to the millimeter without a tailor or a tape measure. After that, we are ready to build!

home-book-an-experience-min

One-of-a-Kind Suits for One-of-a-Kind Guys

With your custom suit through HARTTER MANLY, you will make all the choices. For instance, do you want your side-arm buttons glued or stitched? Additionally, what color do you want your stitches to be? Furthermore, do you want them to blend in or stand out as an accent? Need a suit to perfectly match a bridesmaid’s dress? We got you. In other words, every style and fit choice is up to you, ranging from lapel types to button layouts to vents. After you make your choices, watch your perfect suit come to life in superb quality.

Design a Custom Suit That Can Do It All

These suits feature modern twists on classic styles. Because of their versatility, you can wear them to any event, any way you want.

Can You Really Buy a Custom Suit Online Though?

HARTTER | MANLY Custom Suits Online: Superior Quality

Here at HARTTER MANLY, we create a custom suit experience that leaves you with a suit of impeccable quality, designed with your stylistic choices and measurements to ensure the best fit possible. We use European fabrics and have over 3,000 swatches available to choose from. Most of our suits are 100% wool, but we also offer cashmere and silk blends, to build a suit for you that makes the exact statement you’re looking to put out into the world. Our suits come with a half canvassed interlining (check out our article in the Gentleman’s Cafe for more information on interlining), but you can upgrade to a full canvas suit for an even better fit that will mold to your body with more with time and wear.

Go custom online with HARTTER MANLY for the options

Your suit from H|M will be a lasting investment: half and full canvas suits last much longer, and don’t lose their shape the way fused suits do. And the interlining of your suit is not the only choice you get to make. Designing your custom suit online through H|M, you will make all the choices: do you want your side-arm buttons glued or stitched? What color do you want your stitches to be? Do you want them to blend in or stand out as an accent? Need a suit to perfectly match a bridesmaid’s dress? We got you. Every style and fit choice is up to you, ranging from lapel types to button layouts to vents. Make those choices and watch your perfect suit come to life.

Here's an example:

Custom Suit Online Tool

With our online customizing process, you choose everything. From the number of buttons, down to the slant of the pocket and more. You’re the boss when you go custom.

Go custom with HARTTER MANLY for the fit

We fit better

Everyone is different, in endless ways. We go beyond chest, waist, and shoulders, because even if two people have the same basic measurements, no two shapes are identical. Bespoke suits are considered the top-of-the-line in menswear, but they have some drawbacks. They’re expensive (we mean expensive) and they’re a hassle. They take multiple fittings and require you to head into the tailor at least three times before your suit is complete. (Compare to no visits when you buy your custom suit online!) 

They work from scratch, not from a pattern, for a better fit. However, if you get your suit designed with a menswear provider that uses many measurements, you’ll get just as great a fit. Most importantly, it’s at a much friendlier price-point and comes with a lot less hassle. 

Our suits have that perfect-fit-feeling

In addition, having a suit tailored to your body and shape will do more than fit great – it will give you a unique wearing experience that you won’t find with any suit you grab off the rack. Not only do our suits look fantastic, they feel fantastic. You will find it easier to move in and it won’t feel claustrophobic or hot.

Made-to-Measure

HARTTER MANLY custom suits online are made-to-measure. Specifically, they build off of existing patterns and use your personal measurements to make the required adjustments. In addition, we use 70+ measurements where most M2M suit providers will use 10 to 15.  That brings you a perfect fit that doesn’t break the bank and doesn’t take multiple fittings. Using this many measurements minimizes the likelihood that you’ll need it adjusted. Since you don’t have to take your new suit in to a tailor, there’s no waiting. You can take your suit out on the town as soon as it arrives at your door.

Examples of hair styles on longer faces

Make a statement

At the end of the day, investing in a suit is important. So why should you buy a custom suit online? A custom suit can make you stand out at any event. With fit and design crafted to your exact specifications, going custom makes a statement about your identity and your personal style. Moreover, it will fit like a second skin and make you look and feel like the best version of yourself. A suit says a lot about a man. What is your suit saying?

Posted on by

Suit Fabric and Patterns: What They Are And How To Use Them

Suit design options are truly limitless. Designs come in an infinite number of combinations – from the buttons, to the lapel, to the leg break, to the pockets. But two of the most central and visible elements of a suit are the fabric and the pattern. Because these elements are so integral to a suit design, we wanted to break them down for you so you go into your next suit purchase with a solid understanding of these basics.

The Suit Fabric

The fabric of a suit goes beyond aesthetics. You’re looking for a fabric that wears well – one that forms to your body as you wear it and one that is season and weather-appropriate. Some fabrics are more casual, while others are better for the most formal of situations. So where do you start?

Fabric: Wool

Wool is the industry-standard for formal menswear. The majority of suits you find on the racks or while browsing online are wool suits. Wool comes in a wide variety of options, including different weights and preparations. 

A swatch book showing various suit fabrics and patterns. Yasamine June Unsplash

When To Wear Wool

This means you can wear wool in many different situations. We often think of wool as better suited for winter months that call for heavier, warmer clothes. To the contrary, wool is actually extremely versatile. Besides the heavy wool for winter months, there are lighter weights that are perfect for warmer weather. The best part about wool is that all weights are breathable, so even the heavier weights aren’t stifling. 

Types of Wool

Additionally, wool comes in two different preparations: woolen and worsted. 

Worsted wools are smooth, dense, and compact. The wool lays flat when woven, and is smooth to the touch. Woolen wool, on the other hand, is perfect for those lovely chunky winter blankets and sweaters. The yarn is thicker in circumference but lighter and fluffier in makeup. It creates a more textured look when woven into fabric. Lighter weight suits are typically composed of worsted wool, while the thicker, heavier suits are woolen wool.

Fabric: Cashmere

Woven Cashmere fabrics. Though not ideal for suits, cashmere works well in a blend. By Johnstons of Elgin Unsplash.

Cashmere is fabric that is made from long, thin fibers of goat hair. It gets its name from it’s origin in Kashmir, India. Cashmere has a long-standing reputation as one of the softest fabrics on the planet, and many high-end, luxury suits contain some cashmere . As such, it does carry a hefty price tag. Generally, suits that are not 100% wool are a blend.  For instance, the fabric might entail 85% wool, 9% cashmere, and 6% silk. 

Fabric: Cotton

Cotton is light and breathable, which makes it a pretty popular choice for suits as well. However, cotton is susceptible to creasing more frequently than other fabrics, so you must tend to and maintain your cotton suits. They’re less expensive from the get-go but are unlikely to last as long as a wool suit. Cotton is best for more casual events in the warmer months.

Fabric: Linen

Linen has secured its place as the fabric of summer. It’s light, airy, and flexible, and comes from the fibers of the flax plant. However, linen does have a reputation of being very easy to wrinkle. Therefore, like cotton, it requires regular upkeep and dry-cleaning.

Suit Fabric Patterns

You can use anything as a pattern in clothing! That being said, there are some staple patterns that are more typical in men’s formal wear throughout the years. Each pattern has its own flavor and uses – levels of formality, seasons, type of event, and so on. While a solid-color suit is appropriate in any situation, you can make a statement and have a bit of fun with your attire when you wear a pattern.

Patterns: Crosshatch

The crosshatch pattern isn’t so much a pattern as it is an elaboration on solid color. The weave of similar threads creates a pattern that looks almost solid. However, there are some lighter threads that create a bit of a watercolor effect to break up the solid color. It’s perfect if you want to try a pattern but are a little nervous about being too loud with your attire.

Patterns: Herringbone

The Romans originally conceived of herringbone when creating their roadways. Herringbone pattern’s use in textiles can be traced to 600 B.C.-era Ireland. It looks like the letter V repeated over the fabric, but it’s actually composed of rows of diagonal lines that look like slashes. The rows alternate so that two together make up the V-shape. It’s a relatively discrete pattern that is great for formal settings without drawing too much attention.

Patterns: Houndstooth

The earliest examples of Houndstooth textiles are from what is today called Austria, dating back to sometime between 1500 and 1200 B.C. It’s a two-tone pattern that includes broken-up checks made up of pointed shapes. Houndstooth is an example of a tessellation – a pattern of geometric tiles that slot into each other like puzzle pieces. The continuing pattern, with no gaps and no overlaps, creates the visual effect. Because of the visual effect, houndstooth is on the louder side of commonly-used patterns. As such, you should be cautious of wearing it in formal settings. However, houndstooth can make a fun statement piece as a sport jacket.

Patterns: Stripes

Vertical stripes are either pinstripe or chalkstripe, depending on the stripe thickness. Chalkstripes are thicker and more broadly spaced, while pinstripes are very fine and closer together. Self-stripe is similar to pinstripe, but instead of using a different color thread, self-stripes appear due to a weaving technique. That is, the pattern itself comes from the fabric weave.

Patterns: Plaids and Checks

A plaid or check pattern is, essentially, a pattern in which intersecting vertical and horizontal lines create rectangular shapes on the fabric. There are a few different varieties of checks, but they all follow that general pattern.  

Glen Plaid

Glen plaid, for instance, is comprised of lines of different shades. Usually, two dark and two light lines alternate with four dark and four light lines. This method creates a collection of check shapes in different sizes throughout the pattern.

Check Pattern

Windowpane checks are squares of equal size, sectioned off by a repeating pattern of equidistant horizontal and vertical lines. It is a much simpler pattern when compared to the crowdedness of glen check. Buffalo check is the plaid style that you might expect to find a lumberjack wearing – often in red and black. It’s far more casual than the other checks mentioned here, so should be reserved for statement pieces in less formal events. 

Conclusion

Using what you’ve learned here, you can make more informed decisions about how to dress depending on the situation, season, and level of formality. Patterns and fabrics are the two most basic elements of a suit that will declare a look’s style. Besides the pattern, the framework, bones, and everything that comes after is seasoning. Before you worry about more specific details, ensure you’re dressing in the right fabric with an appropriate pattern. From there you’ll have a much easier time making decisions regarding the more minute details, and you’ll have a perfect custom look ready to go.

Posted on by

Suit Mistakes To Avoid: Do’s and Don’ts of Formal Menswear

A man showcasing how to wear formal menswear. He is avoiding common suit mistakes

Suits can be tricky business. Like every other type of fashion, there are commonly accepted do’s and don’ts for styling a suit. In addition, what’s on-trend is always shifting with the seasons, adding another layer of complexity to getting dressed. Here we will go over the most common do’s and don’ts of formal menswear, so you have a solid base upon which to start building any look.

Suit Mistakes: The Jacket

The aesthetic and style of a suit heavily revolve around angles and lines. For example, in the jacket you have the angles and lines of the lapel, the pockets, the shoulders, the cuffs, and the back vents. Therefore, a significant percentage of what makes a high-quality jacket revolves around the visible proportions. Additionally, a well-made and well-fitted suit drapes over the body and creates an aesthetically pleasing silhouette.

The Most Visible Suit Mistake: The Length

So what makes a good jacket, and what makes a bad one? To start, consider the length. If the overall jacket length is off, the whole silhouette will look off. Additionally, this element is dependent on the shape of your body. Gents on the shorter side are going to want to have their jacket end just below the hip-bones. If you’re on the taller side, slightly longer than that is the way to go. Going too long or too short with your jacket can drastically affect the proportions of your silhouette.

Suit Button Configuration Mistakes

Additionally, the aesthetic style of a jacket can make a huge difference in the overall look. Even the button set-up impacts your look. Wearing the wrong button configuration for your frame will make it look more than a little disproportionate. Most body shapes do fine with a two-button set-up, but if you’re quite tall, go for three. If you do find that multiple buttons work best for your shape, always remember to never button the bottom one.

Suit Vent Mistakes

Additionally, the vents are important. Suit jackets typically come in single or double vent constructions. HARTTER | MANLY co-founder David Manly says to always go for the double vent option. Double vent is best for both aesthetic reasons, and to make sitting more comfortable.

Lapel Mistakes

The focal point of most suit jackets is the lapel. The lapel is the the border around the collar and neck of the jacket that transitions into the edges where the two jacket sides meet in the middle. We have an entire article specifically on lapel types. Our guide explains levels of formality each lapel type. It also tells you how to pick the right one for your body.

Suit Mistakes: The Shirt

A lot of mistakes revolving around the shirt involve the outer edges of the shirt. That is, the places where the shirt is exposed, such as the cuff and the collar. 

Common Mistakes With Shirt Cuffs

The most common shirt mistake is when the jacket sleeve shows too much or too little of the cuff underneath. Make sure the cuff of the shirt breaks right around the wrist-bone. In order to keep the look proportionate, leave only about a quarter of an inch showing underneath the sleeve of the jacket.

Suit and Shirt Collar Mistakes

In regards to the collar, a well-fitting suit is one that has almost zero space in between the jacket lapel and the shirt collar. If there is too much space between the two, the suit will appear baggy and poorly-fitted.

Suit Mistakes: The Trousers

For the trousers, the most common mistakes revolve around both the fit and the style.

Trouser Fit Mistakes

At the top half of the pants, mistakes usually involve the fit of the waist. While a great belt is important for a well put-together suit, the trousers themselves should not actually need a belt in order to fit. If your trousers won’t stay up without a belt, you have two problems. Not only are your trousers too big, but they also probably don’t look great. Extra fabric around the waist that is bunched up by a belt widens the appearance of the hips. A well-fitting suit is sleek and fitted from top to bottom.

Trouser Style Mistakes

For the bottom half of your trousers, pay attention to the break. The break is the point at which your pants meet your shoes, and is a vital detail. The trouser length should create a slight dent where the bottom of the trouser hits the top of your shoes. In order to ensure this, you want the trousers to extend about half an inch past the point at which the fabric naturally meets your shoes. If they’re too long, they will look baggy and bunched up at the bottom. If they’re too short, you will look like you’re wearing a pair of pants you outgrew in high school. 

Trouser Break Trends

H | M co-founder Eric Hartter has found that many of his clients have started wearing the break right at the shoe line for a trendier, bolder look, and this is just as acceptable as long as it’s truly right at the shoe line.

A wide shot of a bride and groom wedding portrait showing the groom in a well fitting burgundy suit. He is avoiding suit mistakes.

Suit Mistakes: The Bottom Line

There are vast numbers of mistakes that can be made when getting dressed for a formal event, the majority of which revolve around angles and lines. When you’re putting your suit together, think of it like a puzzle – the pieces need to be proportionate and fit together, otherwise the whole thing is a mess. These tips are here to help you put together your puzzle so it fits perfectly when it’s complete.

Posted on by

Fall Wedding Ideas: The Ultimate Groom Style Guide For Autumn

Menswear for Fall Weddings

Fall Wedding Basics

Fall is fast approaching, and with it, the Fall wedding season. Are you and your partner looking to have a wedding in September, October, or November? Does the idea of cooler weather, darker color palettes, or a rustic theme appeal to you? Late Summer is commonly accepted as the most popular time of year for weddings, but Fall is not far behind in popularity, and is also typically a little less expensive and a little easier to book. It is important, however, to make sure your wedding suits the season, from the decor to the color palette to the entrees offered to the venue.

Fall Wedding Themes

Ideal menswear for fall weddings with a rustic theme

To determine a theme, sit down with your partner and discuss what it is about the Fall that has made you two decide to have your wedding then. Are you fans of the Autumn holidays? Do burnt oranges, rust reds, forest greens, and denim blues appeal to you? Do you enjoy more rustic locations like old farmhouses and churches, lakeside cabins, or deep forests? Brainstorm with your partner what you both love most about this time of year and use that as a basis to determine what you want the focus of your wedding to be. Compared to the breezy, beachy, and carefree themes of summer fashion, popular fall wedding themes are rustic farmhouse, dark forest, and fantasy. Some even embrace the season head-on and do a macabre, Halloween-inspired theme.

Fall Wedding Colors

A man wearing a brown suit for a fall wedding

When you’re putting together a color palette for a Fall wedding, take inspiration from nature. The vibrant colors you see in the leaves as the season progresses are an excellent place to start. Deep oranges, rusty reds, mustard, goldenrod, ashy browns, and burnt umber are all great options. But don’t just take hints from the leaves. Deep, forest greens, royal blues, and slate grays are also great options. Read our Fall Fashion guide for more information about fall theme colors.

HARTTER | MANLY boasts a collection of suits in gorgeous fall colors. In addition, we can design virtually any style you can dream of.

Fall Wedding Venues

When it comes to wedding venues, your options are vast. The best way to pick a venue for a Fall wedding is to think about what would go with your theme. Rustic farmhouses, epic cathedrals with stained glass windows, old libraries, and any of the many types of museums are all great options for a Fall wedding, and it all comes down to the ambience and vibe you want the wedding as a whole to have. If you’re looking for suggestions, an expert wedding planner can help you choose the perfect place.

Fall Wedding Menswear

Fall wedding 3 piece suit

Think About Layers

The slightly cooler weather that comes with the Fall season means layers are in, so a Fall wedding is the perfect time to rock a three-piece suit. A three-piece suit in a brown or similarly red-based shade has an academic look to it that would suit a library or museum wedding, which you can complement by doubling down on the ‘professorial’ look by accessorizing with a pocket watch or some vintage cufflinks. For a more casual look, rustic weddings –  like those that take place in a farmhouse or even in a forest clearing – are great opportunities to rock suspenders and a bowtie instead of a jacket and tie.

Play With Patterns

If you want to stand out, try a pattern or a mismatched jacket/trousers combo. Patterns that are good for fall are houndstooth, large checks, and Glen plaid. If you’re going to go mismatched, keep in mind that you want either the jacket or the trousers to be the statement piece in your look, with the other half being of a lighter or more muted shade. 

Complete The Look

As always, don’t forget to accessorize. Watches are popular for all seasons. In addition, pay attention to your shoes. Flip through our Footwear Style Guide to find your perfect shoe for the occasion. Also, keep in mind that if your suit is in any shade other than black, you can amp up the Fall color theme by wearing brown shoes to accent your look.

Conclusion

There are a lot of fun things you can do for a Fall wedding. There are tons of options, styles, colors and themes that you can pick from – or, you can come up with something totally unique for you and your partner. These are just some jumping off points that can get you inspired to plan the perfect Autumnal wedding celebration. 

Have a fall wedding coming up? Book an appointment with our experts to see how we can turn your vision into reality with your very own custom suit. Our design bar is fully stocked with variety, quality, and durability. We can create the perfect look for every occasion, customized exactly the way you want it.

Posted on by

Case Study: Ed DeShazer

Ed Deshazer Portrait

A man who is organized and adaptable, Ed DeShazer lives a life of maximum efficiency. It is how he made it this far, and how he continues to find success throughout his life. He always uses his previous successes as launchpads for what comes next, without letting any bit of effort go to waste.

Ed's Story

Born and raised in Milwaukee, Ed was a student athlete who made his way through college on a full-ride athletic scholarship. He’s had an entrepreneurial spirit since he was very young, working on ventures that ranged from food trucks to nightclubs. Ultimately, however, Ed found his passion in education.

Ed Deshazer

Today, he acts as the Executive Director for the Greater Holy Temple Christian Academy, continuing to work towards the goals and principles that the Academy was founded on while simultaneously utilizing his many proficiencies and experiences to improve upon the original vision for the school.

The Academy serves students from all across Milwaukee. To further the capabilities of the Academy in serving its student body, Ed has brought his experience and training in Restorative Practices, which aims to improve and repair the relationships between people and communities. In this way, Ed and the Academy are able to do more than just educate students. They are able to heal and further develop the communities that these students come from.

Ed DeShazer

Case Study: Efficiency

Efficiency is the name of the game for Ed DeShazer. The traditional mall shopping experience is not his preferred method of building his wardrobe – it can be messy, exhausting, and ultimately does not even provide maximum quality. So Ed needed to find something different. Something better.

Enter David Manly. After becoming friends in college, Ed and David continued their relationship as they moved into adulthood and began their respective ventures, which eventually necessitated Ed upgrading his wardrobe. And David had the solution in HARTTER | MANLY. Thus, a partnership was born.

 

Ed DeShazer Case Study

Ed & HARTTER | MANLY

Ed appreciates the ease and efficiency the HARTTER | MANLY experience offers. After purchasing several suits from the H | M catalogue when he was first building his business wardrobe out of college, Ed knew he had a reliable outfitter to help him with his wardrobe. A self-identified minimalist who likes to stick with what works, Ed found comfort in the fact that his measurements were kept on file, dispensing the need to take new measurements each time he needed a new suit. Ultimately, this made his wedding – normally a stressful time for most – a walk in the park.

HARTTER MANLY custom wedding suit lining

Ed is a singular type of man, with a look that is all his own. So on his wedding day, he knew he needed a suit that was all his own as well. With the guidance of HARTTER | MANLY’s style experts, Ed was able to design a custom suit just for him, without any hassle. Ed knew his wedding was a day he’d never want to forget, so he designed his custom suit with this in mind. Now, he has a physical token that holds the memories of the best day of his life.

Ed DeShazer and Bride

A Gift for Groomsmen (& Women!)

Ed wanted to do something nice for his groomsmen (and groomswoman) as well. In lieu of a traditional gift for those who would stand beside him on his wedding day, Ed elected to purchase a suit for each member of his wedding party. The ease and adaptability of H | M’s made-to-measure fitting allowed for each individual member of his wedding party to look great in a suit that fit them perfectly. This even included his groomswoman, who was able to have her suit made just for her body, without having to worry about differences in cut or style.

Ed DeShazer and groomsmen

Case Study: Conclusion

With HARTTER | MANLY, Ed is able to continue to work towards his goals and look great doing it, without having to worry about hassle, snags, or hold-ups. A luxury-level experience with ease-of-use and efficiency to spare is what makes HARTTER | MANLY the perfect choice for Ed DeShazer when he’s looking to suit up.

Ed DeShazer in custom Hartter Manly Suit
Posted on by

Full Canvas vs Half Canvas: Custom Suit Interlining Options

All of Hartter Manly's suits come with half canvas as standard. Image shows two men in suits and overcoats with half and full canvas interlining.

Suits are complex things. There are many aspects that go into constructing a quality suit. From the lapel roll to the cuff break to the interlining, you’ll have a lot of choices when designing your custom suit. Today we’re going to talk about custom suit interlining options. That is, the options you have for the lining that holds your suit together.

What exactly IS interlining?

At its core, interlining is the layer of fabric that goes between the inner and outer layers. It’s what allows the suit to hold shape, kind of like a skeleton. But as with many things in life, there are different levels of quality when it comes to interlining. In the end, what kind of fit your suit has all depends on the suit’s construction. In turn, many times the construction depends on the price point you’re willing to work with.

Price points for custom suits

Suits can vary greatly in price. You can find some suits as low as $50, and some go up to far beyond a several thousand. There are many different factors that go into deciding a suit’s price, and one of them is the interlining type. There are two main variations on suit interlining: fused, and canvas.

Full canvas vs half canvas and other custom suit interlining options
via joebutton.com

Interlining Options

Fused: Cheap in price AND quality

A fused interlining is a thin sheet of fabric (usually wool) heated and pressed between the inner and outer layer. It’s cheap and easy to produce, which means that suits constructed with a fused interlining are usually less expensive. In fact, roughly 95% of off the rack suits are fused. But there are several downsides to getting a suit with a fused interlining.

Since a fused interlining attaches directly to the inner and outer layer, it can feel pretty stiff. In addition, it is also less breathable. So not only will you be hot, you will also be sweating a lot. More sweat of course means more dry-cleaning. Over time, excessive dry cleaning will start to break down the interlining altogether, and that will diminish the suit quality and the fit. With a broken down interlining, the outer fabric layer will bubble up. The fit will get less flattering. Instead of forming to your movements, your suit will sit on top of your body and will sag.

Canvassed: High-class, high price

If you’re looking for a better fit and don’t mind shelling out a bit more cash, consider getting a canvassed suit. Canvassing is a form of interlining where a layer of fabric lays between the inner and outer layers of the suit. While canvassing fabric is usually linen or horse hair, other variations exist. Since the interlining only makes contact at the points where it is sewn, a canvassed suit is very breathable compared to a fused suit. It will move and shift with your body. Even better, the more you wear it, the better it will fit as it begins to mold to your shape.

Full canvas

Compared to a fused interlining, a canvassed suit is both more expensive to produce, and more time-consuming to construct. As a result, you will definitely see the quality reflected in the price. If you are going to a tailor to have a bespoke suit made, be sure to check that they will be creating a canvassed suit for you. There’s no point in paying to have a bespoke suit made with a fused interlining. That would entirely defeat the purpose of having a custom fit.

Diagram showing the difference between full canvas suit and half canvas suit. Both are excellent custom interlining options for your suit.

Half canvassed: A healthy middle

If you’re interested in a canvassed suit but can’t quite afford the price, consider a half canvassed suit. This suit is constructed with a combination of both fused and canvassed interlining. You will have canvas interlining through the chest, lapel, and down to the pocket. The lower half of the jacket is fused. Fused interlining on the lower half is alright since the drape isn’t quite as important there. It’s okay to let the suit taper down so that it has freer motion. You want to retain the heavier structure on upper half of your jacket, where it can serve its purpose. The canvas interlining must form to your shape to accentuate it. That, after all, is the point of a well-fitted suit.

How Can You Tell If A Suit Is Full Canvas or Fused?

If you’ve found a suit you’re interested in and want to know what kind of interlining it has, you can use the ‘pinch test’. Use two fingers of each hand to pinch and separate the inner and outer layer on the chest. If you can feel a third layer in between, then the suit has a canvas interlining. If you can’t feel a third layer, it is because the suit has a fused interlining. 

Which Custom Suit Interlining Option Should You Choose?

In virtually all situations, a canvassed suit is the way to go. Canvas gives the best fit and drape, and the longest lasting suit. As mentioned above, the more you wear a canvassed suit, the more it will adjust to your body. The fit will actually improve over time. While fused is a more economical option, we think your best bet is to go at least half canvassed. It makes a big difference if you’re looking for a proper fit. Though canvassed suits are not the cheapest choice, they will last longer and only look better as time goes on. If you can, splurge. At the very least, go half canvassed. Your closet, and your body will thank you.

HARTTER MANLY's Custom Suit Interlining Options: Half or Full Canvas

HARTTER MANLY’s entry level suits are half canvas. Since we choose to only produce the highest quality garments, we offer you an upgrade to full canvas at cost. That means you get the absolute best price on full canvas interlining. Because of our pricing, 90% of our customers pick full canvas for their custom suits and jackets.

Posted on by

Lapel Varieties: What They Are and When to Wear Them

Lapel varieties example of notched lapels. Both men wear stunning custom suits with perfectly measured lapels.

The lapel is one of the most noticeable aspects of a suit. It works to frame your shape and draw the attention of a viewer’s eye to preferred features and attributes. There are many lapel varieties and they each work for you a bit differently; they are each suited for different occasions and each do different things to work with your shape and features.

Lapel varieties diagram. This diagram shows The Slim Notch, Notch, Slim Peak, Peak, and Shawl lapels

Lapel Varieties: The Basics

Before we get into the different styles, let’s discuss the basics of lapels. Just what exactly is a lapel? A lapel is the matching parts on each side of the jacket, right below the collar, where the fabric folds back towards the shoulders. The average width for a lapel is 3.5 inches, but they can range anywhere from 2 to 5.

Which Width?

Slim lapel varieties

Skinny lapels have rapidly risen in popularity in recent years: they are very on trend, but it’s important to know what width is best for your body. Slim lapels work best on slim guys. If your frame is more on the broad side, avoid the slim lapel, as the proportions will be off and your body will overwhelm the lapel, making it look like it doesn’t fit properly.

Wider lapel varieties

Wider lapels – in the 4 to 5 inch range – typically work best with broad frames. Our signature Wide Lapel Suit, “Houndstooth” is a classic wide lapel suit that accentuates a broad frame.

However, that’s not to say skinny guys should avoid them entirely. If you go slightly wider than average with your lapel as a skinnier guy, you can broaden your frame. Just don’t go too wide since that can let the lapel swallow your look.

Wide Lapel Collection from H|M

Lapel Varieties: A Lapel for Every Man

Now that we’ve covered how to find the correct lapel width for your body and situation, let’s talk about lapel varieties, or the different styles of lapels. The three types of lapels are notched, peak, and shawl. They each best work with different suit styles and on different shapes. Here are the need-to-know basics of the different styles.

The Notched Lapel

A notched lapel is the most common type of lapel. It is called notched because the two layers of the lapel meeting together form a sideways V-shape, or a ‘notch’. It’s the easiest to produce, and therefore the cheapest, but it’s also preferred for most everyday suits. 

When to wear it

You’ll want to wear a notched lapel on a single-breasted suit. It is the standard lapel found on most suits directly off the rack. It is wonderfully versatile and works for most business attire, nice dinners, and other semi-formal events. If you only have one suit, make it a notch, as it will work for most events.

What to look for

When selecting a suit with a notched lapel, you want to look at the size of the notch in comparison to the width of the lapel. They should be in even proportions: if you have a slim lapel, you want a smaller notch. If the lapel is bit wider, look for a larger notch. This helps keep the look balanced, and ensures that the lapel doesn’t overwhelm the jacket.

An example of a peak lapel. Though you have many lapel options with HM, we favor peak lapels as standard for most of our suits.

Peak Lapel Design

The second lapel variety is the peak lapel. It is called the peak because the lower half of the lapel has corners that angle upwards towards the shoulders. Those corners form a “peak” on each side of the jacket. It’s the most expensive style because of all the angles involved in production, but it’s got an edge to it that will always make you stand out.

When to wear it

The peak lapel is excellent for shorter frames because the upward angle of the peak draws the eye upwards, visually adding more height to your frame. It’s also good for more heavyset gents, for the same reason – drawing the eye up and lengthening the frame. Peak lapels are great for more formal events or situations: executive-style business meetings or functions, galas, formal weddings, or parties that call for evening-wear.

What to look for

For the width of a peak lapel, you want to avoid going too slim. That’s because it can look cluttered and you can lose some of the detail when making a peak too small.

A man looking more formal in a black shawl lapel

Shawl Lapel: For Men in Black

The shawl lapel foregoes any edges; it rounds out in a continuous curve, no notches or peaks to be found. It is best to opt for a thinner, slimmer lapel if you’re going to be wearing a shawl style jacket – it makes for a sleek look. Shawl lapels aren’t the best choice for heavier guys or those with a round face, as the curve of the lapel can accentuate the curves of the body and face. The shawl lapel is almost always limited to tuxedos and black tie events – it’s used in only the most formal of situations.

A Final Note About Lapel Varieties

As we’ve discussed here, lapels are important. They are one of the most stand-out aspects of a suit and the lapel varieties require quite a bit of consideration when you’re browsing for your look. There are many things to consider, the most major ones being your shape, the lapel width, and the lapel style. Now that we’ve discussed the basics, and some of the more in-depth concepts surrounding lapels and the lapel varieties that are available, you’re armed with all the info you need to find the perfect lapel, just for you, right here at HARTTER MANLY. Check out some of the lapel varieties on our Suits or Sports Jackets.

Posted on by

Best Hairstyle for Your Face Shape

Long hairstyle example. A man wearing pink suit with long hair style that complements his face shape.

Haircuts are important

They say a lot about who you are as a person. But just as important is ensuring that your hair works with what you’ve got. It’s not a one-size-fits-all situation: different styles work with different face shapes. Like you want your suit to work with your body, you want the best hairstyle for your face shape. The best hairstyle will use angles, lengths, and textures to accentuate features you love and minimize features you’re not such a fan of. 

First Step to Your Best Hairstyle?
Your Face Shape

There are six standard types of face shapes: heart, square, rectangle, oval, round, and diamond. There are a few other shapes that are more rare, but they are more subdivisions of these basic face shapes and the same principles apply.
face shapes example showing Round Face Shape, Oval face shape, Diamond face shape, Square face shape, Heart face shape, and Rectangle face shape.

Round Face Shape

A round face has similar width at the forehead and chin, with rounded edges. That means that  the cheekbones are the widest part of the face.

Oval Face Shape

An oval face is similar to round, in that it has rounded edges at the forehead and chin. The main difference is that the length of the face is a bit longer. In this case, the face is longer than it is wide. Like a round shape, the widest part of the face is the cheekbones

Diamond Face Shape

A diamond face also has the widest part of the face being the cheekbones, but the forehead and the chin come to points. Compared with an oval face, a diamond face has a more drastic angle inward.

Square Face Shape

Square faces are just that: squares. They typically have similar widths the whole way down. The forehead, cheekbones, and jaw are all about the same distance apart. Additionally, this face shape has a relatively flat chin. The length of the face is close to the width going across, which gives it a uniform shape.

Heart Face Shape

Heart face shapes have broad foreheads and pointy chins. The lines follow an inward trajectory the whole way down from top to bottom. Therefore, the widest part is at the forehead and the narrowest part is the tip of the chin.

Rectangle Face Shape

Rectangle faces, like squares, have similar widths going from top to bottom. The difference is that the overall length is a bit longer than the width.

Man in peak lapel suit with tightly cropped hairstyle

Fear Not: You Have Options

Hairstyles for Round Face Shapes

For the sides

If you have a round face, your best bet is to keep the sides short. However, it’s crucial that you don’t round out the haircut where the top meets the sides. You want to have a sharper angle in that transition to create the illusion of more angles in your face. Additionally, it’s best to keep the top a bit fuller. Buzzing it will only accentuate the curve at the top of your head, which widens the cheekbones, which most men want to minimize if they are the widest part of the face.

Up top

Keep a bit of length up top. You have a number of options, but as long as the top is longer than the sides and the intersection of the two has an angle, you’re good to go. You can keep the top spiky and textured, or you can comb it over and slick it back, or you can wear it longer and down over one side of your head. The best hairstyle for your face shape all depends on if you’re going for a more classic look, or something more on-trend and modern.

Hairstyles for Oval Face Shapes

With oval faces, your goal is to balance out the proportions. We know it might seem counterproductive to keep your hair longer on the top and shorter on the sides. But you have to look at the hair and the face in this case as two separate entities. If you have a contrast between the top and the sides, then it will act as its own shape to complement the oval. That is, in contrast to diminishing it or accentuating it.

Hairstyles for Diamond Face Shapes

Diamond faces require some finessing. The best hairstyle for you is one that creates a softer look. Essentially, fewer angles in the hair will balance out the sharp angles of the face. You want the top to be a bit longer than the sides, but don’t make this contrast too drastic. For instance, avoid close fades on the sides. Having a bit more length on the sides will broaden the otherwise narrow forehead. Another thing to avoid is having a fringe that hangs over your forehead. This will make the forehead look narrower than it already is. Keep the sides a bit longer, and the top a bit longer still, but avoid too much contrast. And definitely don’t go too short with the sides.

Hairstyles for Square Face Shapes

Square faces are typically the easiest shape to work with. You have lots of options. The goal is to accentuate your face shape, rather than diminish certain aspects of it. Rejoice! You’ve been blessed. One way to accentuate your face shape is to keep the sides pretty tight. Doing so will highlight the equal proportions you have all the way down your face. You can pretty much do whatever you want with the top. For instance, some things that work especially well are undercuts. An undercut is a style where the top does not connect with the sides, or one in which there is no blending between the top and sides. The undercut is a really fun, edgy haircut that doesn’t work for a lot of shapes. So if you’re interested in rocking it, go ahead! You can get away with it.

Hairstyles for Heart Face Shapes

Heart face shapes have relatively mismatched top and bottom proportions. Therefore, your goal is to balance the two out. The best hairstyle for you has considerable length on the sides. Long sides increase the appearance of width in the cheekbones. One option is to  grow a fringe that sweeps across your forehead, to diminish the width you have there. Or, you can wear it up but keep it proportional to the sides. The goal is to keep the sides and the top at similar lengths. Too short on the sides and it emphasizes the width in the top half, while too long on top makes the upper half appear too heavy. Balancing the lengths on the top and the sides can even out your overall face shape.

Hairstyles for Rectangle Face Shapes

When you have a rectangle face shape, your goal is to avoid elongating your face any more than it already is. In this case, your best best is to keep the top and the sides pretty close in proportion. If you have a look that is more top-heavy, then it will draw out the length of your face. To avoid that, keep the top and the sides at pretty similar lengths. In addition, you don’t have to worry about having too round a transition between the top and the sides, as that will help to balance out the angles of your face.

Examples of hair styles on longer faces

There’s a Hairstyle for Every Man and Every Shape

As you can see, as much as you want to choose a style that suits who you are as a person, it is also crucial that you choose something that works with what you already have. Even for the most difficult face shapes, there are lots of options – the number one thing to remember is your proportions. You can do lots of different things with each of these face shapes, as long as the proportions and length ratios work with your face, rather than against it. The next step is to get your beard groomed to perfection. Use these tips to go forth and get yourself a cut that puts your best foot – and face – forward.

Posted on by

Footwear Styles for Men

Fashionable brogue footwear style

You’ve got the suit, but to make your look really pop, you need to be sure your shoe style matches the statement you’re trying to make. The shoe styles you wear can make or break a look; that’s why it’s so important to select the right footwear for it. We’re going to talk about different footwear styles for men, and what looks they most complement.

Patina loafers in a circle

The Casual Shoe Styles: Loafers

Loafers are among the more casual shoes on this list. They do not have any sort of lacing or fastening system. Instead, they are designed to be slipped on. They are therefore not quite suited for evening wear. Let’s discuss the wide variety of loafer styles, including the penny, the bit, and the tassel.

Types of Loafers: Penny Loafers

Penny loafers rose to prominence in the 1950s. The name comes from the strap of leather that runs across the forefoot. Specifically, the leather strap leaves a small diamond cut-out that has just enough room for a penny. In the early days of loafers, many men did in fact keep a penny in that slot. Some theories exist about why they kept a penny. One or two pennies could, for instance, buy a call in a phone booth. So obviously you’d be smart to keep some pennies handy!

Types of Loafers: Tassel Loafers

Compared to penny loafers, tassel loafers are a bit flashier. In addition to the pair of tassels, they also have more decorative lacing across the top. To leave room for the tassels, these loafers typically have lower vamps. The vamp is the piece of leather that covers the space between your toe and ankle. A low vamp is one that ends closer to the toe. A high vamp, on the other hand, ends back towards the ankle, and closer to the middle of the foot. Many people typically consider low vamps as more suitable for those who are up there in years. But really, a man of any age can rock them. Just promise to avoid wearing them with full business suits. You can get away with darker denim or mismatched suit combos.

Types of Loafers Bit Loafers

Bit loafers have a bar of metal that runs over the top of the shoe. You may also know them as Gucci Loafers, because Gucci developed the design first. Gucci put the loafers on the market to strike a balance between comfort and style. Specifically, the bit style allows men to wear laid-back footwear to dressier events. If you tend to dress on the more conservative side, you may want to forgo bit loafers when wearing your finest suits. Instead, you can wear bit loafers with dark denim or interesting suit and trouser combos. If you want to make a statement, however, wear them to business meetings. As a general rule, though, bit loafers are not a good match for tuxedos or black-tie events.

Derby wingtip, a.k.a blutcher shoes in light brown

The Versatile Shoe Styles: Derby/Blucher

Derbies – or Bluchers, if you prefer – are lace-up shoes, typically lower-cut. They have an open-throat lacing system. The lacing system on a shoe depends on two elements: the vamp, which we mentioned above, and the quarters. The vamp is the piece of leather that sits over the middle portion of the top of the foot. The quarters are the two sides of leather that wrap around the heel and meet at the front of the ankle. In addition, you will see the eyelets located on the front of the quarters.

Open-throat Lacing

Open-throat lacing means that the quarters are on top of the vamp, which leaves the edges of the quarters exposed. Closed-throat lacing, which you will find on Oxfords, means that the quarters are stitched under the vamp. In this case, the edge is not exposed like it is with open-throat lacing.  We will explore more about Oxfords next.

Having the edge of the quarters exposed provides more give and stretch. For that reason, Derbies are great for guys with feet that are on the larger side. As a result of the lacing, however, they are a bit bulkier. As a rule, formal shoes should be more streamlined, so the open-throat lacing is better suited to more casual looks.

Classic oxford shoes for a traditional footwear style

The Classic Business Shoe Styles: Oxfords

Most people know Oxford as the quintessential business shoe. Oxfords are similar in construction to a Derby shoe, in that they are lower-cut and lace up. But the key difference is that Oxfords have a closed-throat lacing system. As you can see in the above picture, they tend to look a bit neater. Since they are more streamlined, they are well-suited to business looks. This style goes best with matching suits and evening wear. They do, however, have a less forgiving fit. That is due to the lack of give that comes with the closed-throat lacing. Despite that, the Oxfords are the most essential dress shoe to have in your wardrobe.

Less Formal Shoe Styles: Monk Straps

Monk straps, by definition, are any shoes that use a buckle closure rather than laces. They come in a variety of styles, but the core concept remains the same. Monks are definitely on the flashier side compared to the other styles we listed. They are less formal than a closed-throat lacing system, but you can dress them up if done properly. For instance, you could wear a pair of black patent leather monk straps with your suit. Essentially any other color or material besides that is better suited to a mismatched suit combo or darker denim. The welt style you choose also affects the look of the shoe.

When to wear single vs. double monk shoe style

The double monk strap, then, is a monk strap shoe with two buckles instead of one. Compared to the single, the double gives a contemporary, bold look. Some of the more conservative among us say it’s too flashy. But it’s not too flashy if you’re all about edge and setting yourself apart. If that’s what you want, then the double monk strap is the perfect fit for you. 

Formality

Let’s consider the formality of both styles. Generally, the more ornamentation a shoe has, the less formal it is. As such, most consider the single to be a touch more formal than the double. Experts do not typically advise wearing them to a black-tie event. And you should especially not wear them with a tuxedo. But really it all depends on your level of daring and the message you want to send with your look.

Brogue shoe style with perforations

The Semi Formal Shoe Style: Brogues

A brogue is any shoe that has decorative perforations in the leather. Contrary to the rule that more ornamentation means less formality, Brogues are more formal than Derbies. However, they are definitely less formal than an Oxford. Instead, brogues occupy the sweet-spot between the two. 

Perforations, Pinking, and Medallions

There are a few different aesthetic elements of brogues: perforations, pinking, and medallions. Perforations are punch-out holes in the shoe leather in a decorative pattern. Pinking is a decorative edge created by pinking shears. In the end, the edge looks like a series of triangles. Medallions are similar to perforations, in that they are also punch-out holes in a decorative pattern. The difference is that you will find medallions specifically on the toe of a shoe. 

Wingtips vs. Longwings

Brogues, as a style, also include wingtips.  Specifically, wingtips are a style in which perforations are on the vamp. They are called wingtips because the decorative perforation is shaped like bird wings. A variation on wingtips is longwings. Compared to wingtips, the ‘wings’ in longwings stretch all the way around the collar of the shoe. All longwings are wingtips, but not all wingtips are longwings. 

When to wear these types of shoe styles

Brogues are certainly some of the showiest styles of business footwear available to men. As a result, they identify you as someone who thinks outside the box. While wearing them, you look like someone who has a flair for the flashy. Typically, you will wear wingtips with simple suits. However, there aren’t many circumstances in which it is appropriate to wear them with a tuxedo. That’s because the ornamentation takes away from the streamlined and neat appearance of a tuxedo.

There’s a Shoe Style for Every Look

We’ve discussed a number of popular shoe styles for men in this article. However, the honest truth is that there are so many more styles out there. The shoes we selected to highlight today were picked because they are most commonly worn with suits. Common footwear styles as these are essential to have in your closet for all the different events you dress up for. One thing is certain: just like suits, there is no one style that is appropriate for every occasion you may find yourself at. Therefore, we’ve gone over these to allow you to build a basic footwear collection. In addition, that footwear collection will complement a wide variety of styles. Check out what is available in the HARTTER MANLY Leather Shop. After all, a look isn’t complete when you put on a suit. It’s complete when you dress yourself up head-to-toe.