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Beard Basics: The Do’s and Don’ts

Man with well groomed beard posing with fist to cheek, showing fashionable watch

Beard Basics

Beards have been on trend for the majority of human history. The first recorded instances of barbering as a profession date all the way back to 5000 B.C. No matter where or when you look in history, facial hair in all its varieties have been staples of men’s grooming and fashion. Considering growing one? Already have one and want to up your beard game? When compared to the hair on your head, a beard is in a league of its own: you also have to treat it right, but there are an entirely different set of rules for facial here. Here are H|M’s beard basics: the do’s and don’ts you always want to keep in mind.

Man being shave with dedicated beard basic products

Beard Basics #1:
Do — Use Dedicated Beard Products

One common mistake men make is using head shampoo on their beard. But you can’t approach beard maintenance with the mentality of “Hair is hair, what does it matter what products I use?” The fact is, the hair on your beard is much different from the hair on your head. It’s thicker, coarser, and more wiry. In order to properly cleanse the hair on your head, hair shampoo strips more of the natural oil your body produces. You need more of those oils in your beard to keep it smooth and nourished. That’s why you need to use a dedicated beard wash. It cleanses the beard and skin underneath without stripping away too much of the oil. And while you’re at it, add a beard conditioner or oil to your beard regimen. Doing so can help supplement your natural oils to keep the beard extra soft and healthy.

Man with clean, beard nicely trimmed

Beard Basics #2:
Do — Focus on Shape, Not Size

A common misconception about beards is the idea that bigger is inherently better. But actually, to make the most of a beard you want it to look neat and tidy. Sure, a thick, full beard is glorious. But if you pay no mind to shaping and trimming it regularly, you will look disheveled at best and like a caveman at worst. This is easily solved by investing in a quality beard trimmer. Or better yet, visiting your local barber. However, if you really must do it yourself, do plenty of research before giving it a go.

Man in white crew neck with long but well kept beard

Beard Basics #3:
Do — Brush Your Beard Daily

Not only will brushing your beard daily help maintain a neat, well-groomed appearance, but it also helps distribute the natural oils through the hair. Natural oils keep it nourished from root to end. Use a wooden, wide-toothed beard comb or a boar-bristle brush. If you want to keep it looking extra clean, blow-dry your beard a few times a week. Brush through your beard from the inside so the bristles face out, and direct the blow-dryer down as your brush through it. Keep the dryer on the warm setting. That’s because too much heat can cause the beard to become brittle. However, no heat at all will keep it from drying in a timely fashion. 

Man with hat and yellow zip up with clean facial hair and groomed neckline

Beard Basics #4:
Don’t — Cut Your Neckline Too High

A quality beard isn’t just about the shape, it’s also influenced by the lines. That is, where the beard stops and starts on your face. Where you place your lines can drastically affect the look of your beard. A common mistake men make is cutting the neckline too high. A simple way to get a clean, well-placed line is to start with a guide. To do it, press your trimmer flat against the line below each of your ears, then work your way to the center. Keep the line balanced along the point where your head meets your neck, just above your Adam’s apple. The angle and lines of your beard should accentuate your jawline, not expose it.

man wearing black notched lapel blazer with clean short beard and mustache

Beard Basics #5:
Don’t — Trim Your Mustache Too Short

Depending on the style you’re going for, mustache widths and lengths vary. One thing to definitely avoid is cutting your mustache too short in comparison to the rest of your beard. Basically, you want the two to be balanced, and keeping the mustache too short can throw that balance off.

Man with well groomed beard and trimmed sideburnssitting on chair holding a magazine

Beard Basics #6:
Don’t — Neglect Your Sideburns

Yes, this is a blog about beards, but the sideburns are also a crucial element. They need to be kept in check, and letting them get too unruly will widen your face. For instance, if you keep a short haircut on the sides and a thick beard, you need to be sure the sideburns taper in between the two lengths. Keep them shorter at the top of the ear and gradually getting longer as you move into the bulk of the beard. While you may be able to trim the bulk of your beard yourself, consider visiting a barber for your sideburns. Tapering sideburns requires a technique that really should be done by someone with experience.

Tools and Products: How to Keep Your Beard Fresh

Through our own research and personal experience, we do have some favorite tools and products to up your beard game. As a note, we are not affiliated with these brands. They are simply products we love, and we want to pass our knowledge of them on to you.

Beard Basics: Tools

There are countless beard trimmers with a wide variety of features on the market. But if you’re looking for one ultimate tool to keep in your arsenal, check out the Hatteker Beard Trimming Kit

Why we love it

You can find it on Amazon for $50, which is a great price even if you were just purchasing the trimmer itself. Instead, you get the trimmer, with an LED battery life display, so you never end up with a dead trimmer and a half shaved beard. Also included in the kit is a hair trimmer head, a beard trimmer head, a detail trimmer head, a body groomer head, a fine-point nose and ear trimmer, and six guide combs (one of which is fully adjustable via a dial). The machine itself also has an adjustment switch to get lengths in between the available comb options. It has a full sixty minutes battery life and has everything you need to look fresh, head-to-toe.

Beard Basics: Products

In terms of products, Billy Jealousy is a brand we’re fans of. They have a whole range of beard-centric products, including waxes, washes, conditioners, aftershaves, oils, and more. They’re made in America, cruelty-free, and use natural ingredients. We love them for leaving harmful sulfates, parabens, and pthalates at the door. If you’re looking to get a collection of beard products going, start with their Devil’s Delight Beard Kit

Beard Envy Products

Why we love it

For only $25, you get full-size bottles of their beard wash and beard conditioner in the Devil’s Delight scent. Devil’s Delight is an intoxicating mash-up of sweet black pepper and sandalwood. It’s a favorite among clients of our barber on staff. Also included in the kit is a boar-bristle brush – densely packed with bristles and soft on the skin. Use the products and brush daily to keep your beard looking fresh.

To sum it up

As mentioned above, beards are a tale as old as time. They’re a men’s grooming staple, and growing one can undoubtedly accentuate your look and make a statement about who you are. But they are their own sort of animal – they require a completely different level of care than the hair on your head. Use H|M’s beard basics tips, tools, and products to put your best face forward, and grow a beard that some men can only dream about. Rock the beard, gentlemen, but always, always remember to do it right.

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Blake Stitch vs. Goodyear Welt: The Shoe Welt Types Showdown

different shoe welts Black welt vs Goodyear welt

Quality shoes are complex: they have a wide variety of construction methods for every aspect of the shoe, and these options all have their pros and cons. You may be considering whether to go with a Blake Stitch vs Goodyear Welt, or you may even be considering something else. In the shoe welt showdown, we are going to look over shoe welt types, and what you need to know when making a decision on the type of shoe welt you want in a pair.

What Is A Shoe Welt?

Put simply, the welt is the layer of material that rests between the insole and the outsole of your shoe. A shoe welt is a structural layer providing support and durability to the shoe’s construction. 

The shoe welt lays between the insole and the outsole and serves a few important purposes. The welt layer is essential in order to create extra support and water resistance. Choosing the right shoe welt type makes for a superior, more durable overall construction. 

In reviewing the Blake stitch vs Goodyear welt, you will need to be familiar with some general shoe terminology.

Shoe Terminology: Insole, Outsole, and Upper

The insole of a shoe is the layer of material your foot makes contact with when you’re wearing your shoes. The outsole is the layer that makes contact with the ground. Another term we will be using here is the upper: the pieces that construct the main portion of the shoe, the portion your foot goes into.

Custom shoes with goodyear shoe welt types

Shoe Welt Types - Blake Stitch Vs Goodyear Welt

shoe welt types diagram comparing blake stitch vs goodyear welt

There are three main varieties of shoe welt types when it comes to attachment, but we’re going to look in depth at two today. The third shoe welt type is called cementing, and it’s simply gluing the layers together. It’s cheap, easy to do, and is usually found on more casual shoes that are less well built. Here, we’re going to mainly focus on the Goodyear and the Blake welt. When comparing a Goodyear welt vs Blake welt, both of these shoe welt types are high quality. As with many garments, the more durable options speak to a higher quality product.

What is a Blake Welt (a.k.a Blake Stitch)?

In a Blake welt, the upper wraps all the way around the insole, resting between the insole and the welt layer. A single stitch pushed down through the insole passes through the upper, the welt, and the outsole. It comes to rest perpendicular to the shoe’s layers.

Blake Stitch Construction

Industrial and flexible – the Blake welt is more common than the Goodyear. It’s more common because it’s easier to construct. The Blake welt’s industrial construction method requires a specific machine and cannot be done by hand. 

Blake Stitch vs Goodyear Welt: Benefits of The Blake Welt

The Blake welt is simpler to construct compared to the Goodyear. It does require a specific machine to create, but on the whole, it is less expensive than a Goodyear welt. The stitch goes through only a few layers, making it more flexible. Because of its simplicity in construction, resoling is simple as well.

Blake Stitch vs Goodyear Welt: Drawbacks of Blake Welt

On the other hand, because the Blake welt requires a specific machine, resoling can be more expensive, despite the initial construction of a Blake welt being on the less expensive side. In addition, while fewer layers does make the shoe more flexible, it also makes it less water resistant, and in some cases, less durable. Some men say their foot becomes irritated by the interior stitching on the insole, as well.

What is a Goodyear Welt?

Most shoemakers and footwear connoisseurs consider the Goodyear to be the superior among all shoe welt types. Custom and intricate, the Goodyear welt is less common and more complex than even the Blake Welt. Overall, the Goodyear welt is more expensive to construct than other shoe welt types because the design is more intricate. Not to mention, shoes with Goodyear welts are handmade. Because of the intricate hand-construction, the welt is also more durable compared to a Blake Welt. 

Construction of the Goodyear Welt

When we say the Goodyear welt construction is complex, we mean it. There is a three-step system involved in constructing a Goodyear welt. First, the shoemaker prepares the insole by creating a perpendicular rib that extends below the insole into the welt. Sometimes the rib uses material cut and sculpted from the insole material itself, or it can use an entirely different material. The maker then stretches the upper into the shape of the toe, and presses it up against the insole rib. A second rib, made from the upper, rests next to the insole rib.

Blake Stitch vs Goodyear Welt: Benefits of the Goodyear Welt

A major benefit of the Goodyear welt is that the two separate stitches makes for an easy resole. Also, while they are more expensive to construct up front, due to the extra materials and manual labor required, the lack of necessity for a specific machine makes for a less expensive resole. While the ribs make for a less flexible shoe, it is more supportive, durable, and water-resistant.

Dark aubergine patina chukka boots with goodyear shoe welt types

So Which of the Shoe Welt Types is Right For You?

When picking a welt style, your choice comes down to trade-offs. In the Shoe Welt Types Showdown, we’ve highlighted some of the pros and cons, now it’s just down to what you’re looking for and what you’re willing to forego. When it comes to deciding between the Blake Stitch vs Goodyear Welt, keep in mind that if you’re looking for a hardy shoe that is going to last you for many, many years, go with a Goodyear. The Goodyear welt, with its durability, more involved construction process, and resoling capabilities, is widely considered the superior welt.

Our Choice between Blake Stitch Vs Goodyear Welt

Therefore, we strictly offer Goodyear welt shoes here at HARTTER MANLY. We want your shoes to last a lifetime and to only fit better with time. Like most elements of a man’s wardrobe, it’s a good idea to have a variety of options. If you’re only looking to invest in one pair of shoes now, take these tips into consideration. Head over to our store and shop our shoe collection, or book an appointment to customize the perfect pair for you.

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Summer Men’s Fashion: The Ultimate Style Guide

Palm trees in a beautiful courtyard

Warmer weather and longer days are two tell-tale signs that Summer is near. But, like every season, Summer calls for its own brand of fashion and style that has rules and guidelines just like Fall, Winter, or Spring. That’s where we come in: we’re writing this guide on summer men’s fashion now. That way, by the time Summer has officially begun, you will be ready to rock perfect Summer looks. Whether you’re at dinner with coworkers or at a dock party with friends, we will show you how to dress to impress. Here at HARTTER | MANLY, we specialize in more formal menswear, but we’ll also take some time in this guide to give you some pointers on more casual looks as well.

Yacht with table set

Summer Staples

For the more casual of Summer days, you should have a couple of staple items in your wardrobe. For your upper half, stick with a chambray or a seersucker short-sleeved shirt. Chambray, a thin cotton plain-weave fabric, is an excellent choice for Summer. Seersucker is also a thin cotton fabric. Another benefit of seersucker is that it sits further away from the skin due to puckering in the fabric. Both of these fabrics make your Summer days are as comfortable as possible. Furthermore, use these fabrics in lighter colors for a casual-cool look. Henleys are a great option as well. A Henly is a collarless pullover with a round neckline and a placket at the neck with several buttons.

For your bottom half, try a pair of Chinos. These popular twill-weaved trousers are lighter and more breathable than your standard jeans. Another option if you want to dress up a bit but keep your look comfortable in the heat is a pair of linen pants. There’s a reason light-colored linen pants are a staple of Summer weddings. Day at the beach? Boardshorts are out, but avoid going too short as well. Instead, go for a swim trunk that cuts off at about mid-thigh.

Summer Men's Fashion Outerwear

If the weather happens to be on the breezier side, you’ve got options for outerwear, too. A tried-and-true staple is the overshirt, also known as the shirt-jacket. These are essentially button-up shirts made of a thicker material than your average shirt. They’re not too bulky, and fly under the radar in most situations. Another option is the bomber jacket. The bomber jacket is often leather, with a ribbed, gathered waistband and matching cuffs. It’s great for windy days, but is not hooded, so it’s not as great for rain. If there’s a chance of Summer showers in your neck of the woods, try an Anorak – a water-proof, hooded pull-over. It offers protection from the elements and can be worn with most casual Summer men’s fashion looks.

Accessorize For Summer

HARTTER MANLY Summer Men's Fashion Example

Accessories and headgear? We’ve got you. Backwards snap-backs are on trend this year. Differentiate yourself by grabbing one with a leather strap. Fashion watches with thinner leather bands are great for Summer. For footwear, there are a number of styles you can go for, depending on the situation. If it’s a more casual day, some light-colored all-leather low-top sneakers are a great option, and very in. Heading to a dock party? Your best bet is boat loafers, no socks. Stop by the H | M Shoes and H | M Accessories pages and see what speaks to you. For socks, wear no socks at all during Summer. If you need them, wear short socks only. We’re big fans of Invisasox, a no-show sock brand that displays your shoes front-and-center.

For More Formal Summer Men's Fashion…

Got a wedding to go to? A business dinner? You can stay formal in the Summer warmth, you just have to approach your wardrobe a bit differently. The seersucker fabric we mentioned above is excellent material for suits. A seersucker suit is quite obviously the most common Summer formal wear. It does tend to sit on the more casual side of formal wear, but it is still a viable option. You can wear linen trousers for a more formal look, and you’ll typically want to wear your trousers in a lighter color.

Keep Summer Fashion Light

You’ll be able to find full linen suits, but in the Summer, you can typically get away with wearing light-colored linen trousers, a button-up, and a complementary sport coat. Summer warmth gives you a bit more leeway in formal situations, which means you can rock a look made up of separates. If you prefer darker looks but still want to fit in with Summer fashion, you can wear a darker sport coat and keep your pants and shirt on the lighter side. Accessorize with darker touches as well, like your tie, pocket square, or shoes.

. . .& Keep It Simple

To go all-out for Summer men’s formal wear, you still want to keep it simple. A single-breasted, two-button suit, with a simple notch lapel is a timeless look. Cotton-linen blends are preferred for their temperature mitigating properties, but if you want to go classic, Merino wool is a great option as it’s lighter-weight. The colors you choose will be down to the occasion: evening or more formal events almost always call for darker colors.

Depending on where you live, the Summer months can be pleasantly warm or absolutely sweltering. You don’t have to suffer through Summer events in stifling, sweat-inducing fabrics: we’ve laid out these pointers for how to stay comfortable and look great during the Summer months.
David Manly in The Revolutionary HARTTER MANLY tan suit
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The Ultimate Wedding Attire Guide for Grooms: Suiting Up on Your Big Day

Groom tying dress shoes

There are few events more important in a man’s life than the day he gets married. So of course, you’ll need to look your best. But where does a groom start when choosing wedding attire? There are so many factors, so many options, and, it seems, so many unspoken rules about wedding day attire. We’re going to break all of these down for you, to make suiting up on your big day a breeze.

Wedding party posing on stairs

First Step of Wedding Attire: Tux or Suit?

There are two standard clothing options for grooms on their big day: the suit and the tuxedo, and which one you choose depends on a large number of factors. Is it an evening wedding or a day wedding? Summer or winter? A more formal affair or more casual?

The most important factor is the dress code of the wedding itself. Are you tying the knot in a black-tie evening affair? Or is this a more relaxed wedding, maybe taking place during the day? What are your partner’s wedding party wearing? Bridesmaids in cocktail dresses typically call for a more relaxed suit, while floor-length gowns call for a tux.

And what exactly is a tuxedo, anyway?

There are two elements that are almost always found in tuxedos: satin detailing, and a shawl lapel. The satin details are often found on the lapel, the buttons, and in a stripe down the side of the trousers. The shawl lapel differs from peak and notch lapels in that it is one continuous panel that drapes in a curve up the chest, over the shoulders, and around the neck, rather than the sharp edges and separate pieces found in peak and notch lapels.

Posing in jacket near window

HARTTER | MANLY’s Tuxedo, The Hawkeye, is an example of a classic tuxedo. The Hawkeye is available for purchase, rental, or customization.

A Suit Means Options

If your wedding dress code doesn’t call for a tuxedo, then you’ll most likely be wearing a suit. This presents its own challenge, as suits come in all shapes, fabrics, colors, and patterns. In this case, you will want to consider more than just the general dress code. You’ll want to consider the time of day, the time of year, the weather, the attire of the wedding parties, and of course, thoughts your partner may have about your wedding attire.

The Color

For most weddings in most situations, a more neutral color in your suit, royal-blue or light gray, is perfect, and you can add color and patterns in your tie, shirt, or pocket square. You’ll want to wait on picking up these aspects of your suit until you and your partner have determined your wedding colors. You don’t have to match exactly, but it’s wise to stick with the same general color scheme for consistency. Here at HARTTER MANLY, we can match the suit accents like the buttonhole stitch and lining to bridesmaid dresses, to keep the whole wedding party looking cohesive.

The Location

If your wedding is on the beach and/or in the Summer, you can typically rock a look that’s a bit more casual. We see a lot of white button-downs, khakis, and linens. Whether or not you want a two-piece or a three-piece suit depends on event formality. A more formal wedding is an appropriate time to wear a vest with your suit.

The Wedding Party

While some still prefer to have the groom’s suit match the groomsmen perfectly, there has been more deviation from this norm in recent years. Grooms are standing out from their groomsmen by wearing different colors, styles, or details. You will want your party to look organized and put-together on your big day. We recommend not doing too much to stand out from your groomsmen. Instead, use smaller details to identify yourself as the groom at your wedding. A vest is a great way to stand out, and you can use a slightly different shade of the same color as your suit. We usually recommend going slightly lighter for the vest. A unique tie, bowtie, pocket square, or boutonniere can make you stand out as the groom without being too loud.

HARTTER | MANLY shoes beauty shot

Accessorize the Right Way

Accessories will take your wedding look to the next level, but there is definitely a right way and a wrong way to go about it. The only accessory you absolutely need is obviously your shoes. You’d look pretty silly without those, but picking the wrong shoes can make you look just as out of place. Our dress shoe collection is the perfect match for your wedding look.

The Right Shoes For Your Wedding Attire

The most commonly worn shoes by grooms on their big day are the Oxfords. But you can’t just throw on any old pair. Your shoes should coordinate with your suit, and there are some general rules that can guide your choice in footwear. For a black or dark gray suit, your best bet is a pair of black leather OxfordsIf you’re wearing a navy suit, or another lighter color, brown Oxfords are a great choice. Not only that, but brown oxfords are a little more modern than the traditional black. Want to really stand out? Try a pair of two-toned Oxfords, patent leather, or even a single or double monk strap. Each of those options add a touch of pizzazz.

Accessories to Complement Your Wedding Attire

For watches or other metal accessories, you want them to be the same color or material as the others. Typically, they should all match your ring. For example, if you’ve got the traditional gold ring, you’ll want a gold casing for your watch. Also, if you want to add cufflinks or a tie-bar, they should be gold too. The same goes for leather goods. If your watch comes with a leather band, you’ll want to make sure it matches your shoes and belt.

Wedding day accessories

Looking great on your big day doesn’t have to be a complicated process. The most important thing is making sure you’re comfortable and you feel good, and your look goes with the rest of the wedding party. You can design your dream suit with our 10,000+ customization options so that you look exactly how you want. Starting this year, we also offer suit rentals so you can look great without breaking the bank. 

We’ve got two of our top selling suit available for rent. Our royal-blue peak lapel suit, The Charlotte Spirit, and our stunning black tuxedo, The Hawkeye are both available. These are great wedding options, whether you’re going Black Tie or want to go a bit more bold. We’ve given you some basic tips here, but remember: it is your big day. Make your look your own for a wedding you’ll never forget. Want more pointers/tips for your wedding day? Book a free appointment with our style experts.