Tag: lapel

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Full Canvas vs Half Canvas: Custom Suit Interlining Options

All of Hartter Manly's suits come with half canvas as standard. Image shows two men in suits and overcoats with half and full canvas interlining.

Suits are complex things. There are many aspects that go into constructing a quality suit. From the lapel roll to the cuff break to the interlining, you’ll have a lot of choices when designing your custom suit. Today we’re going to talk about custom suit interlining options. That is, the options you have for the lining that holds your suit together.

What exactly IS interlining?

At its core, interlining is the layer of fabric that goes between the inner and outer layers. It’s what allows the suit to hold shape, kind of like a skeleton. But as with many things in life, there are different levels of quality when it comes to interlining. In the end, what kind of fit your suit has all depends on the suit’s construction. In turn, many times the construction depends on the price point you’re willing to work with.

Price points for custom suits

Suits can vary greatly in price. You can find some suits as low as $50, and some go up to far beyond a several thousand. There are many different factors that go into deciding a suit’s price, and one of them is the interlining type. There are two main variations on suit interlining: fused, and canvas.

Full canvas vs half canvas and other custom suit interlining options
via joebutton.com

Interlining Options

Fused: Cheap in price AND quality

A fused interlining is a thin sheet of fabric (usually wool) heated and pressed between the inner and outer layer. It’s cheap and easy to produce, which means that suits constructed with a fused interlining are usually less expensive. In fact, roughly 95% of off the rack suits are fused. But there are several downsides to getting a suit with a fused interlining.

Since a fused interlining attaches directly to the inner and outer layer, it can feel pretty stiff. In addition, it is also less breathable. So not only will you be hot, you will also be sweating a lot. More sweat of course means more dry-cleaning. Over time, excessive dry cleaning will start to break down the interlining altogether, and that will diminish the suit quality and the fit. With a broken down interlining, the outer fabric layer will bubble up. The fit will get less flattering. Instead of forming to your movements, your suit will sit on top of your body and will sag.

Canvassed: High-class, high price

If you’re looking for a better fit and don’t mind shelling out a bit more cash, consider getting a canvassed suit. Canvassing is a form of interlining where a layer of fabric lays between the inner and outer layers of the suit. While canvassing fabric is usually linen or horse hair, other variations exist. Since the interlining only makes contact at the points where it is sewn, a canvassed suit is very breathable compared to a fused suit. It will move and shift with your body. Even better, the more you wear it, the better it will fit as it begins to mold to your shape.

Full canvas

Compared to a fused interlining, a canvassed suit is both more expensive to produce, and more time-consuming to construct. As a result, you will definitely see the quality reflected in the price. If you are going to a tailor to have a bespoke suit made, be sure to check that they will be creating a canvassed suit for you. There’s no point in paying to have a bespoke suit made with a fused interlining. That would entirely defeat the purpose of having a custom fit.

Diagram showing the difference between full canvas suit and half canvas suit. Both are excellent custom interlining options for your suit.

Half canvassed: A healthy middle

If you’re interested in a canvassed suit but can’t quite afford the price, consider a half canvassed suit. This suit is constructed with a combination of both fused and canvassed interlining. You will have canvas interlining through the chest, lapel, and down to the pocket. The lower half of the jacket is fused. Fused interlining on the lower half is alright since the drape isn’t quite as important there. It’s okay to let the suit taper down so that it has freer motion. You want to retain the heavier structure on upper half of your jacket, where it can serve its purpose. The canvas interlining must form to your shape to accentuate it. That, after all, is the point of a well-fitted suit.

How Can You Tell If A Suit Is Full Canvas or Fused?

If you’ve found a suit you’re interested in and want to know what kind of interlining it has, you can use the ‘pinch test’. Use two fingers of each hand to pinch and separate the inner and outer layer on the chest. If you can feel a third layer in between, then the suit has a canvas interlining. If you can’t feel a third layer, it is because the suit has a fused interlining. 

Which Custom Suit Interlining Option Should You Choose?

In virtually all situations, a canvassed suit is the way to go. Canvas gives the best fit and drape, and the longest lasting suit. As mentioned above, the more you wear a canvassed suit, the more it will adjust to your body. The fit will actually improve over time. While fused is a more economical option, we think your best bet is to go at least half canvassed. It makes a big difference if you’re looking for a proper fit. Though canvassed suits are not the cheapest choice, they will last longer and only look better as time goes on. If you can, splurge. At the very least, go half canvassed. Your closet, and your body will thank you.

HARTTER MANLY's Custom Suit Interlining Options: Half or Full Canvas

HARTTER MANLY’s entry level suits are half canvas. Since we choose to only produce the highest quality garments, we offer you an upgrade to full canvas at cost. That means you get the absolute best price on full canvas interlining. Because of our pricing, 90% of our customers pick full canvas for their custom suits and jackets.

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Lapel Varieties: What They Are and When to Wear Them

Lapel varieties example of notched lapels. Both men wear stunning custom suits with perfectly measured lapels.

The lapel is one of the most noticeable aspects of a suit. It works to frame your shape and draw the attention of a viewer’s eye to preferred features and attributes. There are many lapel varieties and they each work for you a bit differently; they are each suited for different occasions and each do different things to work with your shape and features.

Lapel varieties diagram. This diagram shows The Slim Notch, Notch, Slim Peak, Peak, and Shawl lapels

Lapel Varieties: The Basics

Before we get into the different styles, let’s discuss the basics of lapels. Just what exactly is a lapel? A lapel is the matching parts on each side of the jacket, right below the collar, where the fabric folds back towards the shoulders. The average width for a lapel is 3.5 inches, but they can range anywhere from 2 to 5.

Which Width?

Slim lapel varieties

Skinny lapels have rapidly risen in popularity in recent years: they are very on trend, but it’s important to know what width is best for your body. Slim lapels work best on slim guys. If your frame is more on the broad side, avoid the slim lapel, as the proportions will be off and your body will overwhelm the lapel, making it look like it doesn’t fit properly.

Wider lapel varieties

Wider lapels – in the 4 to 5 inch range – typically work best with broad frames. Our signature Wide Lapel Suit, “Houndstooth” is a classic wide lapel suit that accentuates a broad frame.

However, that’s not to say skinny guys should avoid them entirely. If you go slightly wider than average with your lapel as a skinnier guy, you can broaden your frame. Just don’t go too wide since that can let the lapel swallow your look.

Wide Lapel Collection from H|M

Lapel Varieties: A Lapel for Every Man

Now that we’ve covered how to find the correct lapel width for your body and situation, let’s talk about lapel varieties, or the different styles of lapels. The three types of lapels are notched, peak, and shawl. They each best work with different suit styles and on different shapes. Here are the need-to-know basics of the different styles.

The Notched Lapel

A notched lapel is the most common type of lapel. It is called notched because the two layers of the lapel meeting together form a sideways V-shape, or a ‘notch’. It’s the easiest to produce, and therefore the cheapest, but it’s also preferred for most everyday suits. 

When to wear it

You’ll want to wear a notched lapel on a single-breasted suit. It is the standard lapel found on most suits directly off the rack. It is wonderfully versatile and works for most business attire, nice dinners, and other semi-formal events. If you only have one suit, make it a notch, as it will work for most events.

What to look for

When selecting a suit with a notched lapel, you want to look at the size of the notch in comparison to the width of the lapel. They should be in even proportions: if you have a slim lapel, you want a smaller notch. If the lapel is bit wider, look for a larger notch. This helps keep the look balanced, and ensures that the lapel doesn’t overwhelm the jacket.

An example of a peak lapel. Though you have many lapel options with HM, we favor peak lapels as standard for most of our suits.

Peak Lapel Design

The second lapel variety is the peak lapel. It is called the peak because the lower half of the lapel has corners that angle upwards towards the shoulders. Those corners form a “peak” on each side of the jacket. It’s the most expensive style because of all the angles involved in production, but it’s got an edge to it that will always make you stand out.

When to wear it

The peak lapel is excellent for shorter frames because the upward angle of the peak draws the eye upwards, visually adding more height to your frame. It’s also good for more heavyset gents, for the same reason – drawing the eye up and lengthening the frame. Peak lapels are great for more formal events or situations: executive-style business meetings or functions, galas, formal weddings, or parties that call for evening-wear.

What to look for

For the width of a peak lapel, you want to avoid going too slim. That’s because it can look cluttered and you can lose some of the detail when making a peak too small.

A man looking more formal in a black shawl lapel

Shawl Lapel: For Men in Black

The shawl lapel foregoes any edges; it rounds out in a continuous curve, no notches or peaks to be found. It is best to opt for a thinner, slimmer lapel if you’re going to be wearing a shawl style jacket – it makes for a sleek look. Shawl lapels aren’t the best choice for heavier guys or those with a round face, as the curve of the lapel can accentuate the curves of the body and face. The shawl lapel is almost always limited to tuxedos and black tie events – it’s used in only the most formal of situations.

A Final Note About Lapel Varieties

As we’ve discussed here, lapels are important. They are one of the most stand-out aspects of a suit and the lapel varieties require quite a bit of consideration when you’re browsing for your look. There are many things to consider, the most major ones being your shape, the lapel width, and the lapel style. Now that we’ve discussed the basics, and some of the more in-depth concepts surrounding lapels and the lapel varieties that are available, you’re armed with all the info you need to find the perfect lapel, just for you, right here at HARTTER MANLY. Check out some of the lapel varieties on our Suits or Sports Jackets.